 |
 |
Upscale Steak Houses
You can get steak at most American or local restaurants, but this section is for the fine steakhouses that scoff at the rest of ‘em, as those listed here take beef to another level. These are not amateur cooks pulling frozen slabs out of the chill box with a sprinkling of Morton’s salt and grocery store pepper – these are people who know the subtleties of steakhouse art.
| Fine American Steak Houses like Ruth's Chris have definitely evolved into an art form. |  |
Most dry-age their steaks on-premise, a method where meats are kept unwrapped in a cool, controlled temperature for a period of between 2 and 4 weeks, typically. This process allows moisture to evaporate from the muscle, creating a greater concentration of flavors, just as a wine reduction sauce does, and also tenderizes the cuts by allowing the natural enzymes within the beef to break down the tough connective tissue.
The fine steak houses in this section all offer certified USDA Prime grade beef, the highest grade issued in the US, and is mostly based on the marbling content, but also on the age of the cow slaughtered, color, texture, and other criteria. Supermarkets, lesser restaurants, and other grocers usually carry two other two grades of beef, USDA choice and select grades. In the Yakiniku section of Japanese foods, we explore the different types of Japanese meats, which are actually far superior in quality and are graded on a completely different scale.
The most expensive cut you can get is a filet mignon, or tenderloin. It is a small, tube-like strip of meat running alongside the spine of the cow and is either sliced into steaks or left whole to produce a chateaubriand. The chateaubriand, however, is only from the center portion of the "log," which happens to be the thickest part.
My personal favorite is a Spencer or rib steak, which is the portion of the cow that is also used for prime rib. They are the same cut, except it's called rib when the rib bone is included, and Spencer when the rib is taken out. These cuts have large amounts of fatty marbling that makes them oh, so tasty. The outer rim, an especially soft and flavorful area that covers roughly two sides of the cut, is clearly noticeable with its delicate texture that often shreds slightly with the grain. It is the single most delicious tasting section of beef you can ever find – at least in my book. When shopping for them at the grocery store, I always look for the ones with the largest “outer rim” area possible.
New York strips are also good if you prefer lean cuts, but like the tenderloin, does not have the high fat content that provides the dripping “sizzle” we appreciate so much.
The Porterhouse is a Flinstone’s-sized cut that combines the New York on one side and tenderloin on the other, with a T-shaped bone in the center to hold the two together. A T-bone looks almost identical, except that the tenderloin side is smaller.
Other cheaper cuts, like sirloin, tri-tip, or chuck are often not even found at the finer steakhouses. Get ready to pay a price for this premium, though. You'll be lucky to get out without forking over $50 or more (can be much more!) per person, and that’s without drinks! Make sure you notice that at most of these places, the price for your steak is just for the steak itself, and side dishes like potatoes and asparagus spears come at their own extra charges!
Besides the high prices, there is one additional caveat that could possibly damper your experience, and that is - "where's the salt?!" Anyone accustomed to throwing steaks on the hibachi on weekends will tell you that a good dose of Hawaiian or natural rock salt, preferably ground on the spot, is key to any good steak. As quality-oriented as these places are, they almost never put sufficient amounts, and that often leads to adding some Morton's right there at the table. But then you get that iodized taste, which just doesn't cut it. Maybe next time I'll pack some freshly-ground Hawaiian salt in my pocket.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 2 locations: 500 Ala Moana blvd. at the Restaurant row in Kakaako (map shown), 599-3860, parking in center lot; and 226 Lewers St at the Waikiki Beachwalk, 440-7910, parking at the Embassy Suites Hotel on Beachwalk. Dinner nightly. Prices: $$$$. Map. My personal favorite is one of the finest steaks you can find anywhere and at or near the top of the list for any fine-dining experience. The steaks are cooked in a super-hot 1800 degree oven to sear the outsides and lock in the juicy flavors, and are served on a platter still sizzling, with fresh butter for a rich, creamy last-touch. Of course, you’ll want to stick with steak here, but other items like seafood, duck breast, and lamb are also top-knotch. In fact, everything here is a winner, including the attentive staff and elegant, romantic atmosphere that will put her in the mood every time!
DK Steak House. 2552 Kalakaua Ave. at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Hotel. 931-6280. Dinner nightly. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. Famous local chef D.K. Kodama has produced a world-class steakhouse of his own right next door to the restaurant that made him famous, Sansei Sushi Bar and Seafood. The dry-aged beef is hugely portioned and modeled after the great classic steakhouses like Ruth’s Chris and Morton’s. If you sit in the bar that separates DK Steakhouse and Sansei, you can order from the best of both restaurants.
| Kind waiters present you with your choice of only the best, 100 percent USDA Prime, dry-aged, grain-fed steaks at Morton's Steakhouse in the Ala Moana Shopping Center. |  |
| Spare ribs at BLT Steakhouse are fork-tender, generously portioned, absolutely delicious, and perfect as an entree or a pupu! |  |
The Colony. 2424 Kalakaua Ave. at the Hyatt Regency Waikiki. 237-6140. Dinner nightly. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. The Hyatt’s version of a steakhouse is set in a contemporary island design, with warm pastel colors, large, almost sofa-like chairs, and a dimly-lit dining room that is elegant yet comfortable. Besides great steaks that are grilled over a kiawe-wood fire, there are fresh fish choices, Kurobuta pork, veal Porterhouse, and whole lobster. For accompaniments, try the mushroom ragout, which is a mixture of different mushrooms sauteed in a rich garlic wine sauce. For desserts, there is an incredible 16-layer chocolate cake and a white chocolate-dipped Oreo cheesecake in a Starbucks coffee sauce.
Neptune’s Garden. 2490 Kalakaua Ave. at the Pacific Beach Hotel in Waikiki. 921-6612. Dinner nightly except closed on Sunday and Monday. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. The Pacific Beach Hotel has a few great spots to dine, and Neptune’s is one of them, with views of the 3-story, 280,000 gallon saltwater tank housing sharks, rays, and other Hawaiian reef fish that frequent local waters. Neptune’s has a hint of Pacific Rim on the menu, but places a heavy emphasis on their USDA grade A steaks as feature items. There is also a nice, quiet, upscale bar area where you can lounge on sofa’s and enjoy the easy-listening sounds of local-flavored jazz on Wednesday through Saturday evenings before having dinner. Or you can just stay put and have some pupus of escargots Bourguignon, shrimp Dejonghe, or hamakua mushroom crostini.
