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Southern/BBQ
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True southern-style ribs? You bet! Molly's cavernous smoker ensures that you get the real deal - but you gotta drive out to Wahiawa to get 'em!
As good as they are, I can never understand why more food operators from the south don’t come to the islands and clean house, as the pickin’s are slim here for true American BBQ or southern food in general. They are not very well-known among the general population here, and tend to be located near large military bases. Watered-down versions of southern or Cajun food, such as Tony Roma’s or Dixie Grill, are great places to eat and also listed in this section, but are not very authentic. I’m not quite sure what happened to Deb’s and Kevin’s Two Boots, two great places that have, unfortunately, closed up shop.
Da Big Boy’z: Molly’s for an unbeatable southern meal; Taste of the Bayou for authentic Cajun goodness.
Molly’s Smokehouse. 23 S. Kamehameha Hwy. in Wahiawa. 351-6550. Lunch and dinner daily. Parking outside store. Prices: $$. Map. Molly’s serves up Texas-style brisket, ribs, chicken, and other meaty staples in a smoker right outside that calls out to the entire neighborhood with an aroma that begs you to drop by. For authentic Southern BBQ on the island, this place can’t be beat! The menu is larger than any other, the dining area is nicer and cleaner than any other, and the most popular item, baby-back ribs, are a step above any other, with a tangy-sweet red sauce and a large, tender, succulent meat that separates easily from the bone. She also has some great desserts, like hot peach cobbler and sweet potato pie, as well as a home-style Texas tea. There are only a few parking spaces fronting the store on Kamehameha Hwy., but there is more parking available in a small lot behind the restaurant.
Hog Island BBQ. A Closer Look. 1137 11th Ave. at the Atrium S.C. in Kaimuki. 388-7784. Wednesday-Sunday only, 11am-7:30pm. Parking in Center lot. Prices: $$. Map. There's only four meats (pulled pork, brisket, chicken, and baby backs) and four sides (baked beans, scalloped potatoes, cole slaw, and white rice) at this tiny shop in Kaimuki, but they do make a great Memphis-style bbq, which features dry rubs and a slightly-sweet sauce applied only after presentation. There are sandwiches and individual plates with one choice of meat and two sides, but they all use the same ingredients mentioned above. You'll find a much cleaner, even healthier approach than most bbq houses, with a mayo-less slaw with dried cranberries, a cheese-less scalloped potato, and a sauce that is lighter than most. The place is standing-room-only, but right past the entrance there are stairs on the right that lead you to an open veranda where you may choose to enjoy your meals.
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Memphis-style ribs from Hog Island BBQ in Kaimuki |
Mom’s Restaurant. 94-226 Leoku st. at the Waipahu S.C. in Waipahu. 678-8201. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Sunday 1pm-6pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$. Map. This very casual eatery is as laid back as you can get - they have ribs, gumbo, and jambalaya, but not always. “When?” you ask? “Whenever’s” is the answer! You’ll never know until you get there! Other than that, there are smothered steaks, meat loaf, catfish, fried chicken, and a few other main dishes. Certain side dishes like collared greens, candied yams, and corn bread come at an extra cost, but two choices of other sides, like mac and cheese, fried okra, black-eyed peas, fried cabbage, and a few others are included with any entrée selection. The southern sweet tea is a sweet, refreshing dip on a hot Waipahu day – you’ll need it because the restaurant gets pretty darn warm at lunchtime, and that fan sitting on the floor at the entrance of the store doesn’t help much!
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Some mighty fun furnishings at Smokin Bob's Barr-B-Q in Kaneohe, where you can get genuine, American-style smoked meats, with pink smoke rings to prove it - see 'em?
Smokin’ Bob's Barr-B-Q. A Closer Look. 46-132 Kahuhipa St. in Kaneohe. 235-4004. Open 11am-8pm daily, except closed Monday. Parking outside store. Prices: $$. Cash only. Map. Once closed down for a time, this Windward spot has opened once again, and is still serving some genuine American BBQ, with pink smoke rings to prove it! There is Cajun sausage, brisket, pork, whole chicken, pork ribs, and even smoked tofu, all served either in plates with three sides to choose from (rice, Bob’s special rice, bbq beans, cole slaw, or mac salad), in sandwiches, or even in a Tex-Mex taco or quesadilla! Ordering by the pound is another popular option, with succulent, smoke-infused meats to go. And remember, cash only, but there is an ATM right inside the store.
| 'Gator, anyone? For a taste of the Bayou, check out... Taste of the Bayou! |  |
Taste of the Bayou. 740 Kapahulu Ave. in Kapahulu. 732-2229. Dinner nightly except closed Monday. Parking on street or in paid lots around area. Prices: $$. Map. This new spot is getting reviews about as good as any restaurant of any type in town! People are beaming about home-style, cut-no-corners, straight-forward Cajun cuisine from a chef who is absolutely zealous about duplicating true, authentic dishes, just like you’d find down south. Why, they even have ‘gator steaks and crawfish at times! Other than that, there are full-flavored dishes that come with lottsa love, such as seafood jambalaya, chicken and andouille sausage gumbo, deep-fried catfish, shrimp etouffe, hush puppies, or house-made desserts like pecan or sweet potato pie. The dining room is themed to the menu (except for Hawaiian print chairs), with giant, full-color murals of “Bayou art” lining the walls, dark-wood flooring, and frilled white curtains. For parking, right across the street sits the Bank of Hawaii lot and right up the street is a lot behind Pizza Hut, where you have to pay about $3, or find street parking for free (night-time!).
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Grampie's is a shack on the side of the road right now, but they do have big plans later, with Southern specialties like thes ham-hock-filled collared green dish. |
Grampie’s. A Closer Look. 1770 Kapiolani Blvd. at the Rock-Za Strip Club lot. 699-1333. Monday-Thursday 12pm-8pm, Friday-Saturday 1pm-9pm, Sunday 12pm-6pm. Parking in lot. Prices: $. Map. Grampie’s is actually a shack on the side of the road right now, but they plan on opening a brick-and-mortar spot very soon. The specialty here is ribs, which are done in the classic American-style fashion, except for touches of local in their excellent sauces, which can come with guava, lilikoi, pineapple, and other tropical fruit flavors. They also carry a tasty ham-hock or smoked turkey-filled collared green bowl, baked beans, mac ‘n cheese, and plump, juicy, spice-rubbed chicken wings that are perfect for pupu’s. Both the ribs and wings are must-try items here, but you may be surprised at the cornbread-fried snapper and catfish, both of which are done with a surprisingly un-gritty, light, and crispy coating I’ve found very satisfying, even though I don’t usually care for Southern-fried catfish.
Maui Mike’s. 96 Kamehameha Hwy. in Wahiawa. 622-5900. Lunch and dinner daily. Parking in lot behind restaurant. Prices: $. Map. I didn’t really know what section to place this casual fast-food eatery in. They specialize in whole fire-roasted chicken, coming with your choice of American-style BBQ sauces like smokey, sweet, lava hot, and honey-mustard, which marginally qualifies it to be here. Maui Mike guarantees a chicken that is never frozen and free of artificial colorings, preservatives, hormones, and the like, but even after all of that I found the chicken, while full of flavor, a bit on the dry side. I’d rather stick with the sandwiches, which are all great choices presented open-faced and full of real, shredded chicken, melted cheese, and bacon. Also comes in complete meals with a drink and fries on the side.
| Not totally American, but Good to Grill still uses real wood (kiawe) to grill their meats, and they do have genuine smoked ribs and Carolina pulled pork. |  |
Good to Grill. A Closer Look. 888 Kapahulu Ave. at the Safeway Complex in Kapahulu. 734-7345. Lunch and dinner daily. Parking at Complex. Prices: $$. Map. Ok, like a few other choices in this section, Good to Grill is not totally an American bbq joint. This new concept is kind of a marriage between American and local-style bbq, using real kiawe wood to grill meats like beef, pork, chicken, and lamb as well as seafoods like salmon, garlic ahi, and hamachi kama. There are also other items like Cajun chicken sausage or Carolina pulled pork sandwiches, chicken jambalaya, linguine and pesto prawns, and even a few pizza choices like margherita, bbq chicken, and chicken puttanesca! The order at the counter store is casual, comfortable, and clean, with a Chef that grills everything behind a glass panel for all to see.
Dixie Bar & Grill. 99-012 Kamehameha Hwy. in Pearl City. 485-0333. Lunch and dinner daily. Parking outside store. Prices: $$$. Map. A watered-down version of southern food with a festive, sometimes noisy atmosphere. Very kid-friendly during the daytime and early evenings, becoming more adult-oriented as the drinks start to flow. Seafood dishes are popular here, and they often host month-long crab-fests that feature Maryland blue’s, King, snow, Dungeness, and rock crabs, all cooked in a variety of different ways. Very popular with military personnel from nearby Pearl Harbor and Hickam bases.
Tony Roma’s, Tony Roma’s Express. 3 locations: 98-150 Kaonohi st. at the Westridge S.C. across Pearl Ridge (map shown), 487-9911; 1972 Kalakaua in Waikiki, 942-2121; and Tony Roma’s Express in the Ala Moana S.C. Food Court, 951-9900. Lunch and dinner daily, except no dinner Sunday at Express location. Prices: $$. Map. American BBQ ribs are the specialty here, but not too many other items of a true southern flair. There are blue cheese burgers, sesame-crusted salmon, grilled shrimp skewers, and tender, barbequed half-chicken plates. The Waikiki and Aiea locations are sit-down restaurants in the similar mold of casual American chains, while the Ala Moana Food Court location is a fast-food alternative.
