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Hawaii Regional Cuisine
| Sea urchin, Kona lobster, Big Island butterfish, and abalone gelee? World-class cuisine with an island-style touch from highly-acclaimed Alan Wong's. |  |
It was the '80's, especially, that signalled the advent of such power chefs as Roy Yamaguchi, Alan Wong, Russel Siu, Jean-Marie Josselin, Sam Choy, and George Mavrothalassitis, who have since become household names and, despite their different backgrounds, have each contributed, along with many others over the years, to the development of this uniquely local "brand."
Different names categorizing this particular type of high-end cuisine have come and gone over the years, with Euro-Pacific, Pacific Rim, Asian Fusion, and more all being used at different times and places. You'll sometimes hear me also use the name Pacific Rim, but in a more forward-looking decision, let's go with Hawaii Regional Cuisine as the "official" term because it's probably the most accurate, as well as encompassing, description so far. Hey, Alan Wong uses it, so it must be aaall good! Not that we should get hung up in such technicalities, though, as they all basically point in one direction, and that is, to the most modern, the most talent-laden, and the most creatively awe-inspiring cuisine found anywhere in the islands.
Hawaii Regional Cuisine is not limited to one genre of cooking. Besides featuring modern, cutting-edge dishes that could grace the cover of any culinary magazine, they also often employ a creativity and innovation to kick up classic comfort foods and otherwise ordinary dishes to previously unseen levels. Fresh, local ingredients are always emphasized, and have served to foster a proliferation of local farms bearing their bounty of items, such as abalone mushrooms, tender mesclun greens, creamy-rich goat cheese, berries of all kinds, and fresh meats like beef and pork. Advanced aquaculture farms in the form of giant underwater cages housing hundreds of thousands of fish at one time also serve to feed the fresh-fish needs of our chefs throughout the state, as do the catches of fishermen who daily bring in their harvest from right offshore or hundreds of miles out to the open expanse.
Even though Michelin, James Beard, Zagat, and many other such names are frequent guests here, don’t think that they have to be snooty, high-minded affairs. You may be surprised at how many walk in with dress shorts or jeans. Perhaps they could be considered more along the lines of a relaxed elegance, typical of the modern island-style prevalent here – quality dining without the arrogance! Food, service, and atmosphere range from good to impeccable, but are usually experienced in a more casual tone than classic fine-dining.
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You'll be amazed at what lurks under this cover! |
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Alan Wong’s. A Closer Look. 1857 S. King St. in McCully/Moiliili. 949-2526. Dinner nightly. Valet parking. Prices: $$$$. Map. This James Beard Award and 11-time Ilima Award winner is the personification of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, helping to raise the bar to Mauna Kea-like levels. An island-style elegance is embodied in everything from the furniture and décor to the excellent service and innovative dishes. Menu items clearly identify with the local culture, as evidenced by such dishes as Da Bag, which is a glorified version of Hawaiian lau-lau and made by steaming clams, kalua pig, shiitake mushroom, and spinach within in a foil bag. The poki-pines dish is another local icon gone wild. It comes from the popular, locally-created poke, which is fried in a won-ton wrapper along with avocados and a wasabi sauce. You gotta have great seafood to survive in the islands as a fine restaurant, and Alan Wong’s does not disappoint, with such excellent choices as onaga, opah, moi, and Kona Kampachi. Besides seafood, they also run the whole gamut of meats, such as twice-cooked, soy-braised shortrib, Kurobuta pork chop, and Maui Cattle Company garlic steak. The wine list is also impressive, as are the luscious desserts and creative 5 and 7-course, set dinner menus, which change according to the creation of new dishes and the freshness of available ingredients.
Roy’s. 3 locations: 6600 Kalanianaole Hwy. at the Town Center in Hawaii Kai (map shown), 396-7697; 92-1220 Aliinui Drive at Ko Olina, 676-7697; and 226 Lewers st. at the Beachwalk in Waikiki, 923-7697. Dinner nightly all locations. Prices: $$$$. Map. Chef Roy Yamaguchi is another James Beard and Ilima Award winner, and has over 30 high-end restaurants in Guam, Japan, New York, and other cities across the US. His flagship restaurant in Hawaii Kai, while high-end, is also very casual, with the open-air kitchen clinging, clanging, and sizzling to produce a decibel level more often found in a busy cafeteria. If you want something a wee bit quieter, sit downstairs in the lounge area or outside if the weather is right – its south shore location right across the street from beautiful Maunalua Bay makes for brilliant sunset dinners and lava-flow cocktails. For pu-pu’s (appetizers, for all you visitors!), try the Roy’s canoe, a show-stopping sample of shrimp sticks, szechuan baby-backed ribs, island poke, pork and shrimp lumpia, and/or seafood potstickers. The Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish and hibachi-grilled salmon are very popular as entrees, and for dessert, be sure to try the melting chocolate soufflé, which must be ordered before the meal because of the preparation time involved.
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Apex in gourmet cuisine types - foie gras with Maui pineapple/vanilla compote from 3660 on the Rise. |
3660 on the Rise. A Closer Look. 3660 Waialae Ave. in Kaimuki. 737-1177. Dinner nightly, except closed on Monday. Parking in building. Prices: $$$$. Map. Chef Russel Siu is another island-born and bred chef that should not be missed, and as mentioned earlier, was very instrumental in the birth and development of Hawaii Regional dining. Ever since his first restaurant, 3660, was opened in 1992, it has always been one of the big power players on the island dining scene, with dishes that blend classic and contemporary in perfect step. The ahi katsu is an absolute icon that has been popular from the very beginning, coming wrapped in nori, crusted lightly with panko flakes, fried quickly to preserve a bright-red center, and layered in slices on a wasabi-ginger sauce. The Macadamia nut-crusted Colorado rack of lamb is as soft as a tenderloin steak and comes with enough oomph to let you enjoy the bold flavors of lamb without any hint of gaminess. Other excellent dishes are the tempura catfish, fire-roasted breast of duckling, and masago arare-crusted ahi – all top-knotch! Complement these with an extensive wine list, great desserts, and top-level service, and we can safely conclude that if you have a bad experience here, it’s all your fault!
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Star power! One of only a couple of local restaurants to receive a coveted AAA Five Diamond Award, you can safely and confidently bring your snotty foodie-friend to Chef Mavro's anyday! |
Chef Mavro. A Closer Look. 1969 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 944-4714. Dinner nightly except closed on Monday. Valet parking. Prices: $$$$. Map. You have to listen closely to James Beard award-winning Chef George Mavrothalassitis, who is really Greek by ethnicity but raised in France, because his accent is very pronounced and his personality one of complete passion, as in someone who frequently loses all sense of everything around him as he becomes totally absorbed in his art. With a stylish Einstonian hairdo and wide glasses, he is our local culinary mad scientist of sorts, having an almost fanatical zeal for fresh, new ingredients and concocting his dishes with crisp precision and detail. You will only find a few set dinner courses on the menu, each carefully matched with wines upon request. Both the food and wine selections are changed quarterly, and are evaluated by the Chef and his trusted staff members, who gather to elect the best choices and pairings before each new menu is made. Chef Mavro’s elegant French-inspired dishes have fused well with local palates, having gained notoriety at the Four Seasons Maui and also Oahu’s premium hotel, the Halekulani in Waikiki. One of the priciest places on the island, but a justified experience, nonetheless.
| It's always a happy time at Sansei's generously-discounted early-bird and late-night Happy Hour's, as shown from the bar side of the restaurant. Who's that babe? |  |
Sansei Seafood and Sushi Bar. A Closer Look. 2552 Kalakaua Ave. at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Hotel. 931-6286. Dinner nightly, late night menu till 1am Friday and Saturday. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$. Map. Chef Dk Kodama was the man who burst open the floodgates for new-wave sushi in the islands – rainbow, caterpillar, and spider rolls, sushi wraps, dynamite scallops, spicy tuna maki, and other such creations. Not for the entrenched traditionalists, but oh, so delicious and pleasing, both to the eye and the palate. They even have a foie gras sushi that is out of this world! Be sure to try the signature crispy rock shrimp dynamite, which is deep fried crispy and tossed in a creamy garlic masago sauce, then drizzled with a rich, dark unagi glaze. They also have great entrees worthy of any Pacific Rim restaurant, such as crab-stuffed lobster tails, pepper-crusted pork tenderloins with Asian fig chutney, and grilled garlic-miso prawns. Free karaoke is offered in the evenings, often with entertaining hosts that help whip up the action. Weekend late-nights (after 10pm) can get really loud and crazy-fun, as the mike booms and appetizers and sushi items are 50% off! There are also early-bird specials of 25%-50% off between 5:30pm and 6pm.
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Fusion delights at trendy but casual Stage Restaurant. |
Stage. A Closer look. 1250 Kapiolani Blvd. at the Honolulu Design Center near the Ala Moana S.C. 237-5429. Lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch 10am-1:30pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. Once you walk into the Honolulu Design Center’s swank furniture outlet and the posh Amuse self-serve wine bar, both of which you must pass to get to the restaurant, you are already pre-conditioned for what lies ahead. Stage is aptly named, with the chef reaching deep into the culinary goody bag of tricks to produce some wild creations on large, showy platters. Stage's former chef started the reputation here for edible gelees, foams, and other cutting-edge creations, but the flair has not been lost, with creative young chefs here since the opening carrying on the tradition with their own unique twists. Dishes like snow crab cakes with Kahuku corn relish and puree with white truffle essence and a grand sashimi platter with Hamachi, kabayaki sauce, wasabi "paint," shoyu gelee, orange tobiko, and crispy radish sprouts with shiso are sure to get your attention. Then there is the roasted Keahole lobster tails, hormone-free king salmon, and trio of beef tenderloin, coming with, in brief, an Asian peppercorn sauce, a brulee'd Bernaise sauce with shiso and togarashi, and a Bordelaise sauce with shiitake mushroom. Meals fit for the big...? No, I won't be so cheesy!
Chai’s Island Bistro. 1 Aloha Tower Dr. at the Aloha Tower Marketplace ocean side of Downtown Honolulu. 585-0011. Lunch from Tuesday-Friday and dinner nightly. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. This chef is somewhat of an international celebrity in his own right, first opening Singha Thai restaurant in Bangkok in 1972, and later a Waikiki location of the same name. Far be it for chef Chai Chaowasaree to limit himself to Thai cooking exclusively – his third venture, Chai’s Island Bistro, was soon created as an outlet for his growing culinary creativity. As Sam Choy was heavily influenced by local and native Hawaiian foods, DK Kodama with sushi and Japanese, and Chef Mavro with all things French, here also we find Hawaii Regional Cuisine at it’s best with decidedly Thai overtones. His popular macadamia nut and kataifi-encrusted jumbo tiger prawns are a winner, as are his duck-filled spring rolls, grilled Mongolian Lamb chops with brandy demi-glaze, and Asian pesto and sake-steamed moi (remember our “fish of Kings?”). One thing you must be aware of here is the music. We’re not talking soft background music with a cello or violin - we’re talking in your face, live concerts with the best local musicians around, like Jake Shimabukuro, Sista Robi Kahakalau, Makana, Jerry Santos, and many more. Not the place for a quiet evening, but definitely the place for a musical, fun-filled one. Half of the dining area is under the stars, and Chai will often be there chatting up guests and seating customers himself.
| Chef Hiroshi Fukui of Hiroshi's Eurasian Tapas combines elegant Hawaii Regional Cuisine offerings with his traditional Kaiseki experience. |  |
Hiroshi’s Eurasian Tapas. A Closer Look. 500 Ala Moana Blvd. at the Restaurant Row in Kakaako. 533-4476. Dinner nightly. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$. Map. Chef Hiroshi Fukui was responsible for the artistry behind the Euro-Japanese concepts at the now-closed L’uraku, and now continues on as part of DK Kodama’s family of fine restaurants, all of which share in the benefits of master sommelier Chuck Furuya to pair the wine choices. Chef Hiroshi’s style of well-balanced, eye-pleasing dishes are a pleasure to the senses. His red-wine braised veal cheeks with a cilantro-pesto crust is moist, flavorful, and bold while the fresh Kona Kampachi Sashimi in tofu/ponzu vinaigrette is a visually crisp contrast of pinkish-white fish and dark citrus-soy sauce. And what is Japanese without sushi and misoyaki butterfish? You’ll find them both in flawless form here. His small, tapa-style dishes are colorful, intricate, and fun - a fusion of modern culture and Japanese kaiseki, which is a traditional art featuring small dishes and many courses, each symbolic of only items that are in season, at the peak of ripeness and maturity. Several nights a year Chef Hiroshi offers an elaborate set-dinner course, where he uses a kaiseki format but is free to venture beyond the confines of strict tradition. Call for times and availability.
Hoku’s. 5000 Kahala Ave. at the Kahala Hotel and Resort in Kahala. 739-8780 or 739-8888. Dinner nightly. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. This elegant dining room boasts great views with stunning sunsets and oceanfront luxury. The open-air kitchen sports a kiawe-wood grill and a tandoori oven that puts out exotic breads, which, when coupled with their different sauces, are absolutely delicious. I can remember when they were offered as free starters, but are now, unfortunately, presented for a charge. For entrees, the whole-fried opakapaka is a show-stopper in itself, as is the seafood tower, which is a large tower of ice whose adornments are pieces of lobster, crab, oysters, shrimp, and other seafoods, all stuck tidily into the tower, with sauces to complement. We actually don’t recommend this dish, but mention it because it is often ordered. Don’t get me wrong, it is a spectacularly presented dish with the freshest of seafood items, but personally, I find seafood on ice more fit for a buffet and a bit too straightforward for an excuisite Pacific Rim dining experience. I prefer to take advantage of local boy Chef Wayne Hirabayashi’s skill and creativity with other more complex dishes, like the lobster hoku-dor (a play on thermi-dor) or his baked oysters with bacon, creamed leeks, fennel, and a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. You know, something only a great chef would ever dream of whipping up!
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Hidden jewel in the quiet residential neighborhood of Niu Valley. |
Le Bistro. 5730 Kalanianaole Hwy. at the Niu Valley S.C. in Niu Valley. 373-7990. Dinner nightly except closed on Tuesday. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. Here is a hidden jewel tucked away in an unassuming, small shopping center in the quiet neighborhood of Niu Valley. Since opening in 2001, chef Alan Takasaki has garnered a loyal following in this hide-away spot without a lot of fanfare and marketing hype, relying instead on simply providing a great dining experience and words passed along through the grapevine. A seasoned chef who had his share of culinary experience all over the world, chef Takasaki originally planned on a restaurant featuring his passion, a pure French bistro. Before the opening bell sounded, however, he believed that in order to please his customers on a more regular basis, he needed to incorporate other ideas as well. His strategy has worked out well and in classic Hawaii Regional form, with dishes like veal with wild mushrooms in cognac sauce that really speak French, as well as items like the locally-inspired dish that is the most popular item here – the slow and low shortribs. The Miro Street-style scallops in butter and New Orleans spices are also fabulous.
Orchids. 2199 Kalia Road at the Halekulani Hotel in Waikiki. 923-2311. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly, Sunday Brunch buffet from 9:30am-2pm. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. When you’re the main Hawaii Regional restaurant at the prestigious Halekulani, you better know what you’re doing. This is the finest hotel on the island, and though not over-the-top with themed gimmicks like Las Vegas or with over-sized mega-pools like the larger hotels on the outer islands, their attention to authentic island tradition, classic décor, and impeccable service leads to a more adult-oriented and elegant atmosphere. Chef Darryl Fujita leads the way with his incredible Sunday Brunch buffet, where omelet stations, meat carvers, seafood delights, lavish desserts, and a plethora of choices will assuredly spoil any plans for whatever it is you were counting on doing later that day, because you won’t be able to move afterwards! Besides brunch, there are also very fine offerings of fresh island fish, with a steamed onaga prepared Asian style, with soy sauce, sesame, ginger, green onion, shiitake mushrooms, and Chinese parsley, at the top of the list. If you’re a bit adventurous try the Kobe-style Tataki beef carpaccio, drizzled with a truffle Crème Fraiche. Such dishes and more match well with the upscale ambiance found at the Halekulani.
| Great views and great food at Mariposa in Neiman Marcus Ala Moana! |  |
Mariposa. A Closer Look. In Neiman Marcus at the Ala Moana S.C. 951-3420. Lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly, Sunday brunch 11am-3pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$. Map. For those of you blessed with casually purchasing $100 salad plates and $200 feather-bearing hats, knock yourself out at Neiman Marcus, but for those of us just passing through the store to the restaurant, you will find a dining room that is upscale but casual, with a contemporary, island-style design. The culinary creations blend well with its Ala Moana Shopping Center patronizers, from the light sandwiches and salads to more upscale creations like like orange ginger-glazed halibut, ribeye w/porcini rub, lobster spaghettini, and opakapaka in Thai lobster sauce. For dessert, try the warm lilikoi pudding cake, which is has a rich, oozing center that sweet-tooth’s will crave, and is topped with an almost equally sweet fruit garnish.
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If you're looking for luxurious out on the North Shore, Twenty One Degrees North fits the bill! |
21 Degrees North. A Closer Look. 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy. at the Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore. 293-8811. Dinner nightly except closed on Sunday and Monday. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. If you mosey on over to the Turtle Bay Hotel on the North Shore, there sits the more upscale ambience of 21 Degrees North. You’ll find such elegant dishes as seared diver scallops with Osetra caviar, lobster bisque, braised Kona lobster with Arborio risotto, and duck breast with spiced duck sausage and lentils. Easily the most upscale spot out in the country.
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Tango cafe at the Hokua Building is a great place for modern, contemporary meals at very reasonable prices. |
Tango Cafe. A Closer Look. 1288 Ala Moana Blvd. at the Hokua Building in Kakaako. 593-7288. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Parking inside building. Prices: $$. Map. Formerly open just for breakfast and lunch, this casual yet very minimalistically stylish cafe offers some very fine foods at really great prices, with only a few dishes moving past $20. Despite the cost, you'll find all the freshest ingredients, attention to detail, and skill and precision typical of Hawaii Regional Cuisine restaurants, whether coming for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. There are classy items like crab hash benedict, eggs Florentine, Hamakua mushroom risotto w/garlic shrimp and asparagus, sauteed moi w/tomato fennel coulis, bouillabaisse of fresh island fish, prawns, and mussels in a saffron broth, and much more.
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Indigo in Downtown Honolulu is a very popular, very eclectic, very enjoyable hotspot featuring a great Happy Hour(s) and fabulous dishes like this mu shu duck roll. |
Indigo Eurasian Cuisine. A Closer Look. 1121 Nuuanu Ave. in Downtown Honolulu. 521-2900. Lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday, late-night Tuesday-Wednesday till 11:30, Thursday-Saturday till 2am. Parking in Marks Garage or other public parking structures in vicinity. Prices: $$$. Map. Located in the heart of the business district that is also fast becoming quite the trendy locale for contemporary art folks, Indigo is the unique dining experience of Chef Glenn Chu’s making. The dishes, as well as the furniture and ambience, are a mixture of Indonesian, Thai, and Chinese. Relaxing sounds from the rock and plant-laden waterfall will soothe your busy mind and the rattan and bamboo furnishings reinforce the exotic Asian feel of the restaurant. There is a busy buffet of dim sum for the office lunchtime crowd, and at night visitors from the nearby Hawaii Theatre and art galleries arrive, especially during Friday night art events. The goat cheese won-tons are delicious and one of the more popular items here. They are filled with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and sweet peppers in a nice four-fruit sauce. The grilled Mongolian rib-eye with black bean beurre blanc sauce is another popular choice. The bar area can get a bit loud, so be prepared for a fun evening, and have a cocktail or three, you know, just to blend in with the crowd!
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Hawaii's only revolving restaurant offers great Hawaii Regional Cuisine and spectacular views of Waikiki and beyond! |
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Top of Waikiki. A Closer Look. 2270 Kalakaua Ave. at the Waikiki Business Plaza. 923-3877. Dinner nightly. Parking in building. Prices: $$$$. Map. A distinguishing feature here is that in one hour, all from the same seat, you will have taken on slowly changing views from mountain to ocean and back, or vice versa, because that’s the time it takes for the entire restaurant to move in a 360 degree revolution from it’s lofty vantage point on top of the Waikiki Business Plaza - hence it’s name. Chef Sean Priester, who has won numerous awards and brought this restaurant to noteriety, is now gone, but new Chef John Ness also has an impressive resume in fine restaurants on the Mainland and Oahu, as well as working under the former Chef for three years. Much of the menu is still here, such as the popular chicken cordon bleu, spicy tuna/Kona kampachi w/sea asparagus, and tea-smoked ginger duck l'orange, along with new dishes like roast lamb chop nicoise and free range chicken panzanella. The combination of great views and dining make this a great experience.
Alan Wong’s Pineapple Room. Macy’s Department Store at the Ala Moana S.C. 945-6573. Breakfast Saturday and Sunday only, lunch daily, dinner nightly except closed on Sunday. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$. Map. A great way to spend lunch in between the best shopping on the island, not that breakfast and dinner are bad. It’s just that lunch just always seems to be a happening time at this chic but very casual spot, one where tutu’s and children can mix with aloha-shirt-clad businessmen and youngsters with nose rings and tattoo’s – right in tune with the Ala Moana vibe. Chef Neil Nakasone has been carefully tutored under the watchful eye of his mentor, with his versions of island comfort food kicked up several notches, like seared ahi, loco-moco, and Chinese-style steamed Mahimahi. Its burger, made with North Shore-grown island cattle, has won a couple of island taste-test contests and is big, bold, and beautiful to behold. Just as a word of warning, though - these high-end burgers are very lean and lack the fat content of more economical burgers. Though the kids who are accustomed to greasy burgers from McDonald’s may not appreciate them, the more discriminating will marvel at the quality of beef itself, cooked perfectly and without the charred slaughtering of cheaper burgers.
Ola at Turtle Bay. 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy. at the Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore. 293-0801. Lunch and dinner daily. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. If you’re out on the North Shore (about 45 minutes to an hour from Waikiki – like another state for us islanders!) this is a nice little stop – it’s almost right on the beach fronting a quiet little cove. The cool ocean breezes run through the entire restaurant, and Chef Fred DeAngelo’s island cuisine is modern and imaginitive. Try the ahi and lobster poke in a won ton spoon for starters, along with the crab cakes. They lack the large chunks of fresh crab you love to see, but the rich and savory flavors make it a winner, blending perfectly with the slightly sweetened lemongrass-soy buerre blanc. The signature slow-poached Togarashi Salmon is also heavy on flavors, exuding an intense smokiness that comes from being roasted over a kiawe-wood grill. The pinkish-orange flesh is super moist and one of the softest cuts of salmon I’ve ever had, but is crusted with a caramelized cane sugar that I find a bit too sweet. In general, a great place for a casual atmosphere with great dishes and an island-style resort surrounding.
12th Avenue Grill. 1145C 12th Ave. in Kaimuki. 732-9469. Dinner nightly except closed on Sunday. Parking in lots behind or around store, or on street. Prices: $$$. Map. Former caterer Kevin Hanney has quickly risen through the ranks with his clean, comfortable retro eatery. He has some unforgettable macaroni and cheese, found on the same menu as the signature kim-chee steak. “Only in Hawaii!” is all I can say! Chef Hanney also creates a really great smoked ahi spread on their nicois salad that is bottled and sold at RC Fields, the Wine Stop, and other fine food stores. And don’t forget the desserts, such as the light, delicious lemon mousse pie and a great maple crème brulee.
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Not your typical greasy burger - Lean, high-quality North Shore Cattle Co. beef is used at Town, along with fries sprinkled with fresh herbs. |
Town. 3435 Waialae Ave. in Kaimuki. 735-5900. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily except closed on Sunday. Parking in lot behind store on 9th Ave, or on street. Prices: $$$. Map.
You may be getting a sense of what locals knew all along – Kaimuki, which is only about a five minute drive from Waikiki, has some really great food! Sure, in the past it was known more for island-style comfort-type foods, but with the addition of Town, 12th Ave. Grill, and Café Miro, not to mention trendy little bakeries like Café Laufer and JJ Bistro, Kaimuki is quickly becoming the sophisticated mecca for small, contemporary cafes. Town fits the bill and delivers with an American/Italian mix of dishes like polenta, frittata, fancy salads and sandwiches, bruschetta, and ribeye steak with Roquefort butter. Its young, hip clientele ensures that there are many healthy options using locally-grown products such as Hamakua mushrooms, Mao Farms organic lettuce, Sumida Farms watercress, and Kulana grass-fed beef.
You may be getting a sense of what locals knew all along – Kaimuki, which is only about a five minute drive from Waikiki, has some really great food! Sure, in the past it was known more for island-style comfort-type foods, but with the addition of Town, 12th Ave. Grill, and Café Miro, not to mention trendy little bakeries like Café Laufer and JJ Bistro, Kaimuki is quickly becoming the sophisticated mecca for small, contemporary cafes. Town fits the bill and delivers with an American/Italian mix of dishes like polenta, frittata, fancy salads and sandwiches, bruschetta, and ribeye steak with Roquefort butter. Its young, hip clientele ensures that there are many healthy options using locally-grown products such as Hamakua mushrooms, Mao Farms organic lettuce, Sumida Farms watercress, and Kulana grass-fed beef.
Downtown @the Hisam. 250 S. Hotel St. at the Hawaii State Art Museum in Downtown Honolulu. 536-5900. Lunch daily except closed on Sunday. Prices: $$. Map. The place with the funky name (and kinda catchy, too – don’t ya think?) is embedded deep in the Hawaii State Art Museum, and the restaurant itself looks like an extension of the museum, with modern designs and display pieces everywhere. I can’t help but to think this symbiotic relationship is a bit more favorable to the museum, though, as the downtown chic’sters have reacted favorably to this new breakfast and lunch spot. Chef Ed Kenny, of Town restaurant in Kaimuki, has created Downtown with the same amount of diligent care – light, healthy, quality meals at a great price and a pronounced Italian accent. The roasted beet salad with arugula, pistachio nuts, and shaved ricotta salata is great, as is the simple but fabulous baked salmon over polenta. There are also items like panini’s, sandwiches, and lasagna made from ground lamb, along with locally made sodas, home made fruit drinks, and great desserts.
| 'Want a garlic challenge? Not only is there garlic outside, but wait till you see what's waiting deep inside these standing French baguettes from Garlic Restaurant Ninnikuya! |  |
Garlic Restaurant Ninnikuya. A Closer Look. 3196 Waialae Ave. in Kaimuki. 735-0784. Dinner nightly except closed on Monday. Parking in two small lots on either side of store or on street. Prices: $$$. Map. “Ninnikuya” means “garlic house” in Japanese, and that it rightly is. Garlic laced four mushroom pasta, Black Angus steaks on a hot stone, and garlic fried rice are some of the specialties here. Even some of the desserts are infused with this potent vegetable, or herb, or fruit - or whatever they call it! You’ll fee like you’ve walked into a friends house, especially when you dine in the outdoor section under the trees, with it’s suburban location and casual atmosphere. This hole-in-the-wall is the sister location of its original store in Hiroshima, Japan.
Sam Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab. 580 Nimitz Hwy. in Iwilei. 545-7979. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, with breakfast buffet on weekends. Valet parking. Prices: $$$$. Map. While Sam Choy’s Diamond Head is classic Pacific Rim, his Nimitz location is much more casual and more personifies the essence of his island style character - playful, easy-going, comfortable, and big! We really love the Aloha and family-style feel of the place, in spite the fact that it also houses a microbrewery producing Sam’s own line of Big Aloha Beers. There’s also a huge boat - yes, that’s right, a boat - in the middle of the dining room, and there’s enough brass, circular windows, and maritime nostalgia to give it a fun, nautical feel. It’s the kind of place where you just wanna cover the whole table with newspapers, get dirty, and tip over a pot of hot, steaming seafood directly over the front page! All heart and all soul, this restaurant is! Jumbo king crab legs, kona lobster tails, peel-n-eat shrimp, manila clams – they’re all here! It’s the perfect place to have an ice-cold, locally-made draft beer, and also very close to the airport if you’re looking for a last island meal!
Hula Grill. 2335 Kalakaua Ave. at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel. 923-4852. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$. Map. This Waikiki restaurant is located right above the popular Duke’s restaurant (listed in the Dinner w/Drinks section) and is owned by the same company. If you want to party, Duke’s is it, but come to Hula Grill if you actually want to hear what your companions are saying. The beachfront view is also better, as you can see a lot more surfing action than is possible from the ground floor. Early evenings are perfect here because of the dramatic sunset views, but it is also perfect for breakfast because the sun rises on the opposite side of your view, keeping you away from the heat and blinding rays of the morning sun. On the menu are items such as Mauna Kea goat cheese quesadillas, sesame opah, steak Diane, and seafood gazpacho. The prices are normal for a Pacific Rim restaurant, but breakfasts are very economical.
Hau Tree Lanai. 2863 Kalakaua Ave. at the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel in Waikiki. 921-7066. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. The Hau Tree Lanai is another open-air Waikiki beach-front restaurant, fronting the beautiful San Souci Beach, sometimes called Kaimana Beach by the locals. This romantic little get-away on the quieter, Diamond Head-side of Waikiki serves up items like escargot, wild mushrooms in a puff pastry, a “fisherman’s stew” of lobster, clams, scallops, shrimp, crab, and island fish, and moi Napolean with Portabella mushrooms and truffle butter sauce. The breakfasts here are fabulous, with an eggs benedict, a veggie benedict, and even a salmon benedict Florentine as well as the familiar line-up of pancakes, waffles, create-your-own omelets, cereals, breads, fruit juices, and the like.
Lucy’s Grill ‘n Bar. 33 Aulike St. in Kailua. 230-8188. Dinner daily. Parking outside store or on street. Prices: $$$. Map. This popular eatery is often crowded and is adorned with a modern Hawaiian beach look, and that goes for the guests, as well! Kailua is similar to Hawaii Kai in that you will find many expensive homes, with well-to-do white and oriental homeowners trying to look the casual Hawaiian part! The dishes here come in large portions for a Pacific Rim restaurant. There are bountiful salads filled with hip ingredients like arugula, mandarin oranges, mesclun greens, red onions, gorgonzola cheese, and balsamic-berry vinaigrettes. Some of the popular main dishes you can find are the pepper-crusted ahi with wasabi-miso buerre blanc, and the spinach and caramelized onion pizza with lilikoi puree.
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Dass' one big boat! The Star of Honolulu has the grandest sunset dinner cruise in the state. |
Star of Honolulu’s 5-Star Dinner. A Closer Look. Pier 8 at the Aloha Tower Marketplace ocean side of Downtown Honolulu. 983-7827. Nightly departures at 5:30pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. This dinner is actually on board the 1,500 passenger Star of Honolulu ship, specifically built for stability and comfort in Hawaiian waters. Be sure to show up early to allow time for check in at the office right across from the ship, as they will not wait for late-comers! This is the premier dinner cruise in the state, and the only one with an excellent 7-course, French-inspired meal that can stand up to the other Pacific Rim restaurants out there. The meals change quarterly, but you can always find a fork-tender filet mignon and lobster highlighting your meals, along with variable items like canapés of melon and prosciutto, Kamuela tomato gazpacho, and rock shrimp endive. You also get to meet the captain, listen to the sounds of live jazz, and be assured that you won’t receive this kind of preferential treatment on any other dinner cruise in the islands, unless, of course, you charter your own yacht! As you may expect, you’ll be paying top dollar for this experience (roughly $175 per person!). If you want something a little more affordable, there are three other levels on the ship that offer dinners for a more manageable $70-$80.
Epic. 1131 Nuuanu Ave. in Downtown Honolulu. 587-7877. Weekday lunch only, dinner nightly except closed Sunday. Valet parking fronting store ($6 p/car) or self-park in any lots around area. Prices: $$$. Map. Restaurant Epic is part of the blossoming of Downtown Honolulu, with Chef David Hoffman preparing such specialties as a roasted tomato horseradish bisque with grilled fennel and prosciutto swiss panini, a blue-cheese-crusted deep-sea papio, gorgonzola-smeared chicken, and kabeyaki glazed U-10 sea scallops. The new-wave sushi seems to be very popular, with interesting concoctions like an inside-out roll of crusted beef tenderloin, grilled black tiger shrimp, and spicy miso mustard sauce. Where there is sushi there must be sashimi, and where there is sashimi there is poke. In Hawaii, at least. Both are offered here as well, like the truffle ahi poke and the sizzling ahi sashimi, served with spiced radish slad, grapefruit, avocado, and jalapeno yuzu ponzu. Definitely some ultra-modern dishes they got going here!
