Aku Eats Oahu : a closer look : Off-Island Adventures, Queen Charlotte Track in New Zealand

Off-Island Adventures, Queen Charlotte Track in New Zealand

Kia Ora!

7/8/08 - (Continuation from Off-Island Adventures: Fiordland Region) Greetings from the final leg of our trip to New Zealand a couple of years ago. After the gorgeous beaches of the Abel Tasman and the spectacular and rugged country-side of the Fiordland region, it was now time to experience the wonder of the Marlborough Sounds. It is a five-day track stretching about 45 miles, but due to time constraints, we planned on only a two-day journey of almost ten miles per day. The trail runs right alongside the calm, deep-blue waters of the sound on paths of constant hills and climbs through lush forests of green.

Being our last adventure of the trip, we lined up some very comfortable accomodations along the way. Instead of tents, we stayed in a couple of small hotels that have strategically placed themselves along the trail, and also had water taxis shuttle our heavy packs from one overnight destination to the next - a huge difference, believe me! The Queen Charlotte actually carries a difficulty rating of moderate, as opposed to the easy of the Abel Tasman, but we thought those descriptions could be the other way around, as both wifey and I felt like Na Pali Coast billy-goats without our giant packs to lug around!

In order to get to the Queen Charlotte from our last adventure in the Fiordlands, we took a roughly 500 mile bus ride, including overnight stays at a couple of different towns. The first leg of the commute was a three-hour bus ride to Queenstown, an absolutely beautiful ski-resort mecca nestled up in the same mountain region where so many Lord of the Rings scenes were shot. The resident population there runs at about 10,500, but the number of tourists clamoring for its snow-capped hills, vibrant night-life, watersports on the lake it sits on, and excellent wine and cuisine available make that number swell to much greater levels on any given day.

Lake Wakatipu is the picture-perfect watery oasis Queenstown is blessed with.

More than any city we've been in since arriving in New Zealand, there is a resort-like feeling and sophistication here that matches any in the world. The town center is a lover's paradise, with quiet boardwalks, water-front restaurants and shops, alpine mountains in the background, and a crisp, fresh mountain air that must add several years of longevity to residents here. Some of those mountains in the background look almost like paintings, but I never do any Photoshop tricks to the pics except for a little brightening or darkening of colors once in a while.

Departing Queenstown, another day-long bus ride was to come. Not that I was complaining - sitting in air-conditioned comfort while traversing through a seemingly endless expanse of gorgeous scenery was a welcome respite to the constant activities wifey and I pre-planned into the trip. Actually, a long bus ride is truly an activity in itself, and an excellent way to experience another country with a bit of quiet reflection. It's not just sitting back and relaxing - it's being in wonder and marveling at the different aspects that make each country unique and different.

I was surprised to find out that agriculture is only 4.8% of New Zealand's entire economy. Judging by the seemingly limitless amount of land dedicated to farms covering everything from sheep, salmon, and deer to fruits, vegetables, and timber, it just seemed that the number would be higher. Upon further digging, I was equally shocked to find that our own agricultural output is much less, at only 0.9% of GDP! What? With all the truly gigantic farms of corn, soy, wheat, and potatoes out in the midwest and across America? Amazing... Just for fun, consider India's agricultural output of 17.6%, Vietnam's 19.5%, and Uganda's 30%!

In case you're wondering, I get a lot of my info from the World Factbook put out by the CIA. Not that I couldn't copy the figures wrong - that's why this is just a blog and not a site you wanna be banking your master's thesis on! Check ALL figures yourself if you want to be sure!

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, we passed by this truly memorable moving sprinkler contraption. If this thing wasn't listed in the Guinness Book of world records, I'd be surprised! It ran right off the picture and must have spanned at least four or five football fields!

After the long commute we finally arrived in Picton, where the sun was already long gone. You'd figure this port town'd be booming, as it houses the terminal for a giant ferry that shuttles people and commerce between the north and south Islands two or three times a day. When you arrive here from the connection point on the other side, which happens to be the vibrant Capital City of Wellington, the contrast is quite dramatic - the population of Picton actually dropped by several hundred from '01 to '07! I have no idea why, as it is a very charming little town.

Here are a couple of shots on the massive ferry, taken enroute to Picton from Wellington earlier on the trip - absolutely gorgeous! Are you getting a better picture on how big the ship is? Superferry is a plastic boat in Junior-boy's Sesame Street bubble bath compared to this hulking giant!

And here are a few shots from Picton town, from top left then clockwise, main street, waterfront park, the Villa Backpacker's Inn we stayed at, and the main park.

The food in New Zealand is pretty similiar to what you'd find in the US, with lots of meat, sandwiches, fresh fish and seafoods, and fruits and vegetables galore. The slight differences are that they have more lamb, more bread, more fish 'n chips, and as a whole, probably place a heavier emphasis on freshness and organic products since small backyard-type farms are so numerous. Meat pies are the one thing popular there that we don't seem to carry much of. Following are an order of scallops, each prepared in a different way, along with a giant plate of seafood wifey and I gobbled down, but only just barely, consisting of every bounty the sea had to offer in these here parts.

Wifey and I both loved the quality of food throughout the country. In Picton, all the restaurants we visited were small, family-owned operations where attention to fresh ingredients was always evident, with the small-town friendliness reaching Molokai-like levels. I wish I had taken a picture of the delicious bowl of seafood chowder that we had at one of these small cafes. It was the epitome of natural goodness and unlike any chowder I've ever had, coming loaded with fresh clams, mussels, fish, and other seafoods. You knew instantly that there was'nt a penny's worth of ingredients coming from a can or any powder-based flavorings at all. For some reason, I only took a snap of the veggie/cheese panini we ordered alongside the chowder.

If you can recall back to our two-day trout search for the "big one" in Te Anau, which came up empty, just remember that our hunt didn't go completely unanswered in New Zealand. Heck, we lugged two fishing poles and gear from home the entire time - we better bag at least a small platter of sashimi somewhere!

On advice from the very helpful owner of the neighborhood Outdoor Supply Store, we went whipping for kawai, a species of fish found only in New Zealand and Australia that kinda resembles a long saba, or mackeral. Yeah, sure they are almost considered a nuisance throughout the region, but they come decent-sized and put up a pretty good fight. I was also told they make a good sashimi, but we never found out because the one we did try to save in a little pond got swallowed up by a giant saltwater crocodile. Just joking, brah. The culprit was an errant wave.

Here is a closer picture of one of the smaller ones, along with wifey's catch. Poor girl - she was as game as ever and never did quit, but all she seemed to be catching was these brown hinalea-looking things! I surmised it was because her casting couldn't reach as far as mine and her reeling was a bit slower. I tried giving the pole to her after hooking them, but she'd refuse every time! You know wifey - she is one proud and very competitive person, I tell you me, boy! I ended up pulling in about seven or eight of these things within a couple of hours time - good fun, brah!

Another day in Picton saw us really desperate for fish. We jumped on a small boat with a fishing guide there, going for the very popular blue cod, a bottom-feeder that seems to be on everyone's short list of favorite fish to eat in the area. We got a really late start on the day because one of the other guests on board was temporarily AWOL and weather conditions were so bad that the entire trip was almost cancelled. Both wifey and I, however, did manage to get a few blue cod - our platter of sashimi arrived, after all! It was sliced up back in our hotel room with my trusty all-purpose Gerber tool (what can a Leatherman do that a Gerber can't, anyway?!). However, despite the flaky white meat that is supposedly delicious cooked, it turns out this particular fish wasn't so great in the raw.

Sorry, no pictures of the boat adventure except for this shot of me driving while the Captain was busy cleaning our fish stern-side.

Departing Picton, finally, we caught yet another shuttle to begin the Queen Charlotte Track. We had to board a boat to get to the actual start of the trail, which was a cove where a statue memorial of Captain Cook stood. Geez, that boy sure did get around!

The cove was beautiful, but the clouds were so dark that much of its luster went into hiding for a while.

As you can imagine, much of the trail was wet and muddy. Fun, fun!

The trail ambled up and down the hillsides much like the Abel Tasman, alternating between beautiful coves and sweeping vistas. The forest was also very similiar, with giant ferns, lush vegetation, and towering trees as cover.

The trail also occasionally ran through patches of private property, as signs of civilization dotted the area. Wifey doesn't have a license, but that didn't stop her from trying to operate the heavy equipment.

We made our way off a little side path opening up to the sound. Little did we know a strange creature lurketh in the shadows.....

New Zealand doesn't have have any snakes or scorpions at all and have very few poisonous insects around, and the few they do have are not considered life-threatening. But who knows what could be walking around in the bush?

Before man arrived, there was not a single land mammal at all here - not even rats! Because of this lack of mammalian predators, birds had no need to flee to the air for safety, and ground birds soon ruled the islands. A 13-foot tall beast-of-a-bird that would put to shame any ostrich, called the giant moa, once reigned supreme. It was to be exterminated by man sometime in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, along with the many other species that went with it.

These days, most of the exterminating is going on by a man-made introduction of animal pests, of which the two worst are the stoat and possum. They are a double-whammy disaster there, with possums stripping forest leaves bare and sometimes stealing eggs and young bird chicks, while stoats are one of the most efficient predators on earth. The small, weasel-like creatures have that shrew-like metabolism that sets them on constant hyper-drive and must eat frequently just to get by. Killing machines, they are. Both creatures can multiply in plague-like numbers with both of their food sources being so plentiful and easy to get in innocent New Zealand.

One of the few groundbirds that have adapted and lived on is the weka, although their populations and range have also been drastically reduced. It is about the size of a small chicken, and kept us company on several run-in's throughout the trail, always begging for hand-out's but always keeping a cautious distance at the same time.

The first overnight accomodation was very accomodating, indeed. The Furneaux Lodge is a must for anyone on this trail, with separate suites that are even better than most hotels in the city! You can check out their website at www.furneaux.co.nz.

There were many dramatic scenes along the way, and they did'nt have to come in huge, sweeping views, sheer cliffs, or tall, raging waterfalls. This small series of drops no more than a few inches deep mesmerized me in its tranquil beauty. I just had to capture the moment!

The second day of hiking brought us more sun than the first, but the trail was just as muddy! And by the time we arrived at the next night's stop in the late-afternoon, Punga Cove Resort, the rains were yet again threatening! The first thing we did upon arrival, after checking in, was to jump in the hot-tub! Reminiscences of the beautiful Japanese onsen baths came to mind, where the comfort of steaming-hot outdoor springs belittle the cold weather that rudely and immediately await to greet you upon leaving the safety of the water. Sure enough, the same thing happened in New Zealand, with wifey and I quickly rushing back to the warmth of our rooms after the dip.

Punga Cove was not nearly as nice as the Furneaux Lodge, but it did have some decent amenities. The restaurant had an impressive mountaintop view of the sounds, and its dishes were typical of the fresh ingredients and attention to fine cuisine found even in these remote locations. Here is a pork dish served over a bed of mango and vegetables.

After a great dinner and a short visit to the water-side bar, we locked in a good nights sleep and awoke early the next morning to begin concluding our time on the trail.

As we sat waiting to board the ferry out, I took one last picture of some of the structures that make up the resort. Bye-bye Punga Cove, bye-bye Queen Charlotte Track!

A short boat ride later and we were back on the giant ferry to the north island and the Capital City of Wellington. We would have two restful nights sleep at the James Cook Hotel, a great downtown hotel I would recommend to anyone. We spent most of the time there just shopping, picking up omiyage, and casually enjoying the city's scenes and attractions.

Being New Zealand, it is quite safe here, so we got to wander off just about anywhere around town. The ocean-front area was great, and we took advantage of the the Te Papa Tongarewa - the National Museum of New Zealand, as well as the many fine restaurants in the area.

There is still very much of a small-town feel here in Wellington despite it's big-city status. Of course, we didn't venture north of Wellington at all the whole trip-long. The areas above it are considered more "city" than the south side, and the locals even describe the country as divided into two sections - one is the south island and Wellington (even though it sits on the bottom of the north island), and the rest of the north island. I guess the southerners have a sense of pride in their more laid-back, country-style attitude.

We even got to catch a parade as it passed by with all kinds of crazy characters, including Galactic Stormtroopers, Boba Fett, and Scooby Doo! I love it!

As stated many times, there is some great cuisine in New Zealand. Here are a few dishes from Downtown Wellington, right there on the water. From top-left and continuing clockwise, an oh-so-slightly blanched whitefish, a whole scallop dish, a steamer of fish and vegetables, and a bed of raw oysters.

New Zealand is a beautiful country where the scenery is stunning, its people warm and friendly, and the opportunities for a great trip are endless! I can imagine living in a place like this one day! Of course, there are actually many places around the world where I think the same would hold true.

Wifey and I crammed as much as we could into our experience, planning the entire trip on our own and molding it to fit our interests - vigorous physical challenges that allow you to enjoy the fine cuisine and luxurious stays even more. There's nothing better than playing hard, working out, and then pampering yourself with amenities and life's little pleasures once in a while!

Farewell from New Zealand, and don't ever get it mixed up with Australia, that completely separate and distinct country over 2,500 miles away! I'll leave you with just one of those "little pleasures" that are so fitting at the right time and under the right circumstances - a good cup of joe! Pretty, ey?

Aloha!

Aku

Back to A Closer Look

On to the Abel Tasman Track, New Zealand

On to the Te Anau/Milford area, New Zealand

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