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Mortons Steakhouse, a closer look
Aloha!
12/24/09 - Aaaah, steak. Delectable, divine steak. Wanna know how a country's affluence is measured? By the amount of beef they consume, of course! I know, I know, there are certain poorer countries that have historically raised beef cattle, and certain wealthier nations that have religious or cultural anathema's against red meat, but as a whole, the richer a country gets, the more beef they consume. Only fitting, then, that the latest generation of fine steakhouses treat their beef the way steak should be treated - with the utmost care and respect! I mean, these are not old-school hangouts like Sizzlers, Stuart Anderson's, or Chuck's, no disrespect to these brands. Rather, spots like Ruth's Chris, Wolfgang Zweiner's, and Morton's, to name a few, have truly taken the steak experience to whole 'nother level!
Why, in times past, the USDA Prime grade of beef couldn't even be found at your nearest grocery store or supermarket, and even today, is only offered in small quantities, if at all, but elite steakhouses won't even touch the stuff unless it's USDA Prime, the highest grade given in the US. But that's just the beginning. Cuts of beef are then further enhanced by standing or hanging in the open air of a temperature-controlled room for a period of one to three weeks (can be longer), in a process called dry aging. This method literally shrinks the meat by 10, 15 percent or so and concentrates the flavors, producing a deeper, more complex taste, and also serves to foster naturally-occuring enzymes that soften and break-down the tougher connective tissue. But we're not done yet. There's also super-hot ovens that quickly sear the outsides of the meat, locking-in juices and sealing-in the flavors. And don't forget the upscale atmospheres and excellent, butler-ish service, which counts for a whole lot. In other words, a trip to the best steakhouses should mean not just a meal, but a rewarding, gratifying dining experience, one worthy of any special occasion.
That being said, though Morton's, at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, is still the picture of elegance, with an unmistakeably classy, upscale feel, outside of the fine glassware, silver, and table-top accompaniments, it was actually a bit more modestly-furnished and casual than I'd expected, especially after hearing that most individual steaks top $50, not including sides. And yeah, I did say most regular-sized steaks, not just the few! Even the selection of slightly smaller cuts still cost between $40 and $45! At these prices, I was wondering if I'd even make it in with the t-shirt and jeans I was wearing, but the hosts and hostesses were all very cool and accommodating, so no worries at all. Besides, I sat in the bar, so I didn't feel too out of place...
And why the bar? Well, the Real Estate behind this glass wall, where it sits, is home to one of the biggest little secrets on the island, as far as Happy Hour's go:
And it's only at the bar (not main dining room!) that you can enjoy a list of Happy Hour specials - from 5pm-6:30pm and 9:30pm-11pm, Monday thru Friday, you'll find decent drink specials, but an even more impressive half-off bar bites menu! Cost for everything listed there? Are you ready for this? About five bucks! Ok, ok - it's not the full appetizer menu, where you'll find things like Maine lobster cocktail, broiled sea scallops wrapped in bacon w/apricot chutney, lobster bisque, or tuna tartare w/tomato, avocado, Thai cream, and balsamic glaze (all $15-$22 each). No, these are fare of a simpler nature, although, believe me, they're still on a quality level you won't ever see in your typical, weekly Happy Hour haunts, such as Ruby Tuesday's, Chili's, or Ryan's, that's for sure!
Kumi and I quickly found a seat on a small, high table, just fronting the bar itself. The scene here was more laid-back than the main dining room, yet still commanded plenty of attention and respect. Lighting was much darker, with cherry wood/mahogany-type finishes everywhere, and the over-all feel, almost like you see in the movies, a place kind folks like Al Capone and Bugsy Siegel would call home base - had it not been for all the Aloha shirts and slacks around, that is. Guests were mostly older and of a professional mind-set, all settling-in for a few drinks, probably straight after a hard day at the office.
Though you can still order from the regular menu while seated at the bar, only Bar Bites come at a discounted price. Like I said, at five bucks, each holds its own more than well enough. Out of the nine selections, we ordered a total of five, all of which you'll see on this page. The four remaining dishes not chosen, reserved for next time, were the mini-prime cheeseburgers, crab/artichoke/spinach dip, iceberg wedge bites, and blue cheese fries.
First-up for us on this particularly wonderful early-evening? Four petite filet mignon sandwiches, petite being the key word. Yeah, the meats were very much on the small side, but hey, we are talking genuine prime filet mignon, and they were still plenty worth our while. The tenderloins were, uh, tender, and the buns were toasted crispy on the bottoms and warm, light, and perfect on the insides:
Whether going Japanese or American, and whether spiced with ponzu and tobiko, shoyu and Tabasco, wasabi aioli, or good ol' cocktail sauce, Kumi's always aaall over raw oysters. Must say, while I enjoy them, I don't really crave 'em, so it was my better half that informed me, after demolishing the plate and asking for more, that they were as fresh and tasty as could be:
You know, I love a good crabcake, but the key word here is a good crabcake. Some versions contain so much bready filler, they end-up tasting like mushy croutons with chopped fishcake. Morton's, on the other hand, takes crab cakes to another level. Though relatively small in size, it seemed to me, they just grabbed giant clumps of super-sweet, insanely succulent crab meat alone, then just gave the clumps a good coating of seasoned flour, only on the outsides! Seared together to a beautiful golden-brown, it was just the right mix of salty, ocean-tasting binder to complement the crab, not, as in so many cases, the other way around. No, they were not drenched in creamy dill, mustard-mayo, or even a remoulade - this here's all about crab, and crab alone - just the way it should always be. I'm tellin' you - my mouth is literally watering right now! Dis one, no can touch.
Yeah, the crabcakes were definitely impressive, but what surprised me most on this fabulous evening was none other than the humble and lowly chicken tenders. Allright, allright - chicken goujanettes! Whatever the case, I was a little surpised that such a dish could even be offered in such a place as this, even with the fancy name, but there they were. I was just thinking that something deep-fried would do us (me) a whole lotta good, and something a little more filling was probably called for, as all the other pupus ordered, except for the sliders, were very dainty and rich.
Thing was, these were, without a doubt, the best chicken tenders, I mean, chicken goujanettes, I had ever had! Both Kumi and I were extremely pleased at the juicy tenderness of the meat, how perfectly they were cooked, and how tasty and robust, yet crisp and delicate the coating was. You really didn't even need the mustard mayo dip at all!
And the extremely positive vibes continued with the introduction of our next plate, as well, a classic shrimp cocktail. Yeah, the order was once again small, but the shrimps, absolutely humongous! It's hard to grumble about this beautiful pair - plump, juicy, huge. Sweet, tender, succulent. Just check out the pic - there's no denying shrimp cocktail at Morton's, that's for sure!
With enough pupus to make an entire dinner, Kumi and I had to return on another occasion, and this time, we weren't back for bar bites!
No sir, it was finally time for the real menu, the actual dishes and accoutrements that made Morton's a leader in fine American steakhouses! Now, I gotta say, sitting in the main dining room was an experience much different from the bar, that's for sure! I mean, these days, I normally don't get intimidated at all while taking pictures, but at places like Alan Wong's, 3660, La Mer, or Morton's, I do get a bit more nervous, and don't wanna be bothering other customers who are shelling-out so much money for the occasion. I mean, I could tell the guy on my right was a doctor (don't ask how!), and to the left, a Japanese family with the mannerisms, grace, and wear so high-classed, I thought they were the Prince and Princess themselves! And sitting right in front of us, another obviously wealthy couple (guy looked like corporate, probably finance!), along with none other than Miss Carole Kai! But hey, no worries. In the end, da Aku can hold his own. As long as I'm with the wife, that is. One look at her, and they think I gotta be somebody...
Before settling upon our order, our kind server wheeled-out a cart filled with trays, one containing a mix of vegetables, another carrying raw seafoods, another with the various cuts of steak, and last, a live lobster that had to be at least two pounds! I over-heard the waiter explaining to Miss Carole Kai that their lobsters were sold by the pound, and that the biggest they offered, at three lbs., would set you back a cool 96 bucks! I remembered our three-pound lobster at Ruth's Chris, back when Kumi and I were first dating, but our relationship is rather secure right now, so... Eee-asy, brah, just kidding!!!
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I know, I know - terrible shots! I was sure I'd end-up chucking them altogether, but figured I'd show them just to give you a better idea of the whole experience. It was pretty cool, the way they brought these big ol' platters out, going over and explaining each and every item on each and every plate! Our decisions had already long been made, however, as we were set from the very beginning on our two favorite cuts of steak, a ribeye and a tenderloin.
But before going there, we needed a few sides to complement all that beef, sides that were a lot more difficult to decide upon. I mean, with sauteed button mushrooms, sauteed spinach, garlic green beans, steamed broccoli w/Hollandaise, Lyonnaise potatoes, and the hugest spuds I'd ever seen, to name a few, the choice wasn't easy. The giant spuds were last in falling victim to the cut, leaving us with a total of three remaining side dishes, the first being a steamed jumbo asparagus with Hollandaise, for $11:
My goodness! Is everything here on steroids, or what? I worked in produce for about 6 years, and I'd never seen spears this huge! Not that I'm grumbling, however, as these gorgeous lengths of green, complete with tight, slam-shut-closed flowers, could not have been sweeter, could not have been snappier, and could not have been less tough or stringy, even at the bottoms, mostly due to the fact that the harder skins of the lower extremeties were peeled-off, and the cooking times, down to a science!
Wow - the best chicken tenders, I mean goujanettes, and now, the best asparagus spears I've ever had in my life? I'm a believer, for sure!
That bowl sitting behind the asparagus is none other than that steakhouse staple, creamed spinach ($11). A bit more tempered, I was, at this particular dish, but it was still enjoyable, nonetheless. There was lots of cream and lots of richness, but to me, could have used a little more saltiness and flavor, relative to such richness:
The mac and cheese, also at $11, was perhaps even richer, coming absolutely loaded with yellow cheese. The next day, as I heated leftovers from our fabulous evening, this particular dish was one solid mass, as there was so much cheese, I had to slice it up in whole, large chunks! And what can you say about lots and lots of gooey, luscious, sharp, full-bodied cheese? Da buggah was ono, dass' what! Can't eat too much at one sitting, but what you do eat is certainly memorable, considering you like cheese.
The menu said hint of spice, but I couldn't tell of any spice, just a few herbs sprinkled-on, which I couldn't taste, either. The top was singed a bit to form a nice crust - did someone say grilled, toasted, perfectly-browned cheese? Double-ono!
Man, with all this great food, I forgot about the onion bread they brought-out earlier! The one presented was shaped like a large muffin, with a slight onion taste on-top and a warm, light, fluffy center, along with a simple slice of butter on the side. Kumi began going to town on this roll at first, but I had to warn her to slow down, considering the dishes coming later and all.
But finally, the real reason you all come to Morton's - 100 percent USDA Prime, grain-fed, dry-aged Chicago beef! No sirloin, flap, tri-tip, mock tender, or chuck here! There are only three cuts, basically - New York, ribeye, and tenderloin, the cream of the crop! Well, there are different names on the menu, as well, but they are all basically combinations or variations of the same three cuts. A Porterhouse, for example, is a combination of New York and tenderloin, while a Prime rib is, as you know, ribeye cooked whole as a large roast, then cut into thick steaks only after cooking. These are the only cuts better steakhouses will, and ever need, to carry!
We asked for our single-cut filet mignon ($40) pupu-style, or already cut, as well as medium-rare, and they hit both right on the money. It may look a wee bit closer to medium on the first cut shown, but the closer you got to the middle, the red sections got that much larger. To tell you the truth, I preferred the outer sections better, while Kumi was happier with the inner sections of meat. In fact, I think she'd probably enjoy her steak rare - a little too savage for me, though!
I thought I told our kind waiter to present our next selection, a regular-sized, Chicago-style (bone-in) ribeye, intact, or not sliced into sections, but I probably just didn't make myself clear enough, as we were talking about several different things at the same time. No worries. As you'll see in the next shot, I was still one happy camper.
At $51, I kinda expected something a bit larger, but despite the fact, we still had plenty of beef to take home. Like the tenderloin, we asked for and received our ribeye perfectly medium-rare, only there's a big difference between the two cuts, and once again, and even more so, I probably would have preferred this steak a solid medium, instead. It's just that unlike a tenderloin, which has very little fat, a ribeye contains sooo much fat, and also a wee bit of sinew. When it comes to the transluscent stuff, raw, or near raw, for me, doesn't work quite as well. Furthermore, because of its larger, thicker size, this one took a much deeper red the closer you got towards the center!
One glaring aspect about steakhouses that I personally don't find optimal is that they never use enough sea salt, a fact I've heard repeated often from others, as well. I dunno, maybe us local bruddah's are just so used to steaks on the hibachi with plenty of ice-cold beer around, and it's no secret that beer drinkers favor saltier treats to munch on while manning the grill. This one was a wee-bit short on salt, too, as expected, but still, the tenderness, juiciness, and obvious quality of these steaks were simply incredible! Even without enough salt (to me, that is!), they were still absolutely mouth-watering and insanely delicious, leaving me in awe of the extra care and careful preparations finer steakhouses employ. Dry-aging really does make a big difference, and leaves so much more of a stronger, beefier, shall I say, even gamier, taste?
But perhaps an even bigger difference, taste-wise, was the charred, blackened, grilled taste these steaks carried. I mean, I don't know how they infused so much flame into them (I guess an 1800 degree oven helps!), but I sure wish I could do steaks that way! Like the super-heated woks of a Chinese kitchen, this extra infusion of smoky taste was huuuge, lemme tell ya!
Bottom line on the steaks? Double-thumbs-up! In fact, that goes for the Happy Hour menu, as well. It's like two restaurants in one, but at both, you'll get tip-top service, top-of-the-line quality, an over-all great experience, and an evening you'll not easily forget, that's for sure!
Hope you're having a fabulous Christmas week! Not too hard, considering this absolutely gorgeous weather, ey? Lucky we live, Hawaii!!!
Take care and Aloha till next time!
Aku
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