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Miyabi, a closer look
Aloha!
7/18/09 - Look to the right, look to the left (and I'm not talking politics!) - everywhere you turn, whaddaya see, but a new izakaya spot! I guess there's a need around these here parts for Japanese-style taverns, ey? Whether they be of an old-school, humble design or a new-wave, super-modern style - either way, in the land of the rising sun, both traditional and modern seem to meet in perfect tandem and lock-step, perhaps more than any other place on earth. It doesn't always have to be either/or, you know.
Miyabi on Kapahulu Ave., right across from the Running Room Store and Go Bananas, is a modern-looking, contemporary izakaya, but it features lots and lots of traditional-minded dishes, albeit with all the current-day amenities like beautiful presentations and skilled Chefs at the helm. We all know that once upon a time, things like brown rice, brown bread, stews like nabe, and organs of any kind were all considered dishes from the old-world, as well as for the poor, but you can scarcely tell these days, as once-unassuming items are now oftentimes in the vogue as Chefs keep pushing the envelope of current norms, trying to incorporate new ideas, new twists, and new tastes, even if that means going back in time, to dishes that have perhaps been forgotten by all but the most distant memories. However, it's precisely these distant memories that always seem to strike the deepest chords and fondest feelings, as tastes and recipes buried inside the playbooks of any culture, like those grandma used to cook for us as kids, will always hit home like few other things on the planet can. Of course, traditional dishes may be oooh, so fiercely-cherished by the host culture, but are often found in another type of playbook when it comes to those looking-in from the outside, those who may be from completely opposite parts of the world, in which case, these same items'd probably make feature presentations for Andrew Zimmern or Fear Factor.
Take, for instance, squid, or calamari, if you prefer. Most see and experience them smoked, dried, grilled, perhaps in a Fisherman's stew or stir-fry, or maybe dusted in flour or egg wash, then deep-fried. Not in Japan. There, it's all about freshness, and when you talk fresh, you gotta talk raw. Now, I can handle that, as raw ika is not bad at all with a little shoyu/wasabi. But then again, that's not exactly what I'm talking right-about now. On this particularly lovely night, which saw Big Al, Bruddah Nels, Da Gooch, Trace and Renee, and Kumi (wifey) and I out, we had raw squid, allright, but bathed inside of a special sauce. A really, really special sauce, that is...
And the opportunity of seeing that look on Trace's face after he tried it? Aaah, beyond priceless!!! Oh, why can't I make up my mind about which video camera to buy? Highlight material, I tell you! It was one of the first things he ate, but the taste lingered in his mouth till the very end while we all high-five'd eachother for a job well-accomplished, and Trace went desperately searching for a gargle of anti-freeze spiked with Clorox and a dash of liquid Drano.
The violent reaction was due to the fact that the squid was swimming in a highly toxic mix of squid guts (liver, to be precise), which is broken-down into a liquid by passing it through a sieve, then allowing it to ferment for a few days with a little sake, mirin, konbu, citrus, or other items, none of which serve to lessen the pungent taste to any substantial degree!
A little more tame, though not tame enough to where Trace'd try it (in fact, he wouldn't eat anything else we offered him that night which he couldn't already recognize!), was a bowl of motsu nikomi, or giblet stew. Though cooked, I just couldn't do any more than a single bite, unable to get into the wild, primal taste of it all. Who knows - maybe one day something will simply snap in my mind, and all of a sudden, I'll become as addicted as wifey is! To help guys like me, there was a large amount of tofu included, but all that strange meat, the names of which I'll leave to your imagination, was just a little bit much.
Along the same vein, though much smaller and less intimidating because it was mostly tofu, along with a thin piece of konbu, was that unmistakeable honey-combed pattern of tripe, or intestines. Guess who for?
But it wasn't all about guts and glory, because first of all, wifey was the only one from our table who had any, save for an exploratory nibble. However, there were plenty of other, more familiar-sounding dishes, any of which you'll find in most izakaya places on the island. Some of these were, in order, fried squid, roasted ginko nuts, and yaki-onigiri, just to provide some starch:
One of the newer fad's going around comes from deep-fried gobo. That ever-popular izakaya on S. King St., Imanas Tei, has a great version that comes in shoe-string-like sections of gobo, piled high:
Meanwhile, Ojiya's, on Kapiolani Blvd., has a version that comes in wide, flattened, potato chip-like cuts, as seen here:
Miyabi's style comes yet again different, in thicker, more stump-like sticks. All were delicious, though this one from Miyabi, of course, has much less surface area for batter (although the batter is thicker), an aspect you may like or dislike - pick your poison, is all.
Miyabi definitely reflects the refined elegance of Japanese meals, with the simple, yet highly-skilled precision that exemplifies these types of eateries. Portions may be small, as in this fried salmon below, but boy, are they pretty to look at, and you won't find any wilted leaf vegetables, brown cucumbers, or any sort of haphardly put-together concoctions, rushed out in some cafeteria-like line. The world that brought us Zen, Bonsai, and Bushido Code doesn't compromise with details! In fact, they often revel in them, which makes them perfect purveyors of dishes like these:
Donburi is one of those common street foods found everywhere, but in a place like this, it doesn't seem so common at all. And different, too, as this one didn't even come with rice underneath! It's usually sitting there, soaking up all that delicious, dashi-flavored, egg-running sauce. The pieces of pork inside were juicy and tender, while the panko coating was light and flaky, combining for a killer donburi and most pleasing to Da Gooch, who loves his fried foods even more than me!
And if it's fried foods you love, the next dish is sure to be at or near the top of your list - karei karaage, or deep-fried, whole flounder, is well-suited for oily immersions. Being flat, the flesh cooks quickly while every other part of the fish turns crispy like a potato chip, its fins, bones, tail, and even head transforming into crunchy morsels perfect with a cold brew or three. Or four. But who's counting...
Sometimes, they just cut slits down the sides and fry 'em whole, but this time, it looks like they removed the meat and fried them separately, and you know what that means - more surface area to soak up even more oil! Who needs fish 'n chips when you got fish chips?
In Japan, there are small yakitori restaurants that sell nothing but grilled chicken, fired-up over an open flame. Chicken thighs w/negi, chicken breast w/shiso leaf, chicken skin in all its glory, chicken livers, chicken hearts - any kine! Mostly placed on small bbq sticks, it's easy to get carried away, ordering up a storm of varieties that make an evening interesting and fun. Though most izakaya spots include this type of cooking on their menus, a couple of the best places to fancy them are Kohnotori, on S. King St. and right next to Imanas Tei, and Tsukuneya, on University Ave., at the old Pizza Hut location, as they both specialize in chicken-on-a-stick. The former is a bit more of a casual, less-expensive hangout, while the latter is more modern-style and pricier.
At Miyabi, there is a full line-up that may seem cheap, at $2-$3 per order, but then again, each order is only one piece! Things sure do add-up after a while! This next plate consisted of tsukune (ground chicken), gizzards, thigh, breast, and wing:
Wings oftentimes come stick-less, and with all that flavor provided by the skin and bones, in combination with a super-tender meat, they are easily one of the best, if not the best, parts of the entire chicken. If you don't wanna mess with picking meat from between two stuck-together wing bones, there's a really great wing at Hanabi on S. King St. They take the time to separate the two small bones, then open them up so that the two bones are on the outsides, with lots of tender, succulent meat in-between that can be eaten in much easier fashion:
Otherwise, just get 'em whole, like these:
As I said in the beginning, the menu here is quite extensive, with all manner of Japanese specialties involved. There's even sushi, and, in a move likely being the only type of diversion from tradition, Miyabi offers several new-wave, very much local-style rolls, including, from left to right - spicy ahi, caterpiller, and rainbow rolls. I'll let the pic speak for itself, as you can already see how beautiful they are and how delicious they must've tasted!
It's funny how wifey never even thought of ordering any sushi, as in nigiri-zushi, or the simplistically powerful, quintissential mold of rice covered with a single piece of raw fish or seafood. I guess she was satisfied with guts and glory on this fine evening. But they are available here, with the Chef behind the counter looking very much in control of this particular matter.
The inside of the restaurant is quite small, so you may wanna call ahead to make reservations (737-2828). Furnishings are simple but clean, with the main dining area you see here (there's more to it, but I didn't wanna bother a few other customers) as well as a separate private room.
It's funny how a lot of these newer places are almost unknown to locals here on the island, but yet, can so easily be packed with Japanese National's! How the heck do they find these places when most of us cannot?! Actually, though, I can see how it's all possible, as there's a whole world of advertising on the island specifically suited for both the large amount of Japanese tourists as well as those from Japan who are temporarily living here. I just checked out a new, small ramen shop the other night called Raraya (yeah, I know, you've never heard of it, and t'was very good, BTW!), and I was the only local there! Stranger in my own home, I tell you!
But it's aaalll good, as it only means more places to eat and explore!
In parting, I'll leave you with a couple shots of the entrance. There's no parking provided, as is the case for so many shops on busy Kapahulu Ave., but there are several public lots in the vicinity (for a few bucks) or individual slots on the road, if you happen to get lucky.
The weekend is here, and it's time for some serious hibachi!
Take care and Aloha till next time!
Aku
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