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Mavros, a closer look
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Aloha!
1/14/10 - You're sitting down with a Mainland representative from Gayot, James Beard, or any other big-time award representative. He sits down, looks you in the eye, pen and notebook in hand, the subtle but very clear sign of a smirk beginning to form at the outer edges of his lips. Personifying an intense demeanor strictly forbidding answering a question with another question, he sticks it to you, in hot pursuit, with an intrusive, forth-right question - "I've got one night in the islands, so where are we going?"
Aaaah... Herein lies the 64 million dollar question, the one I get asked more than any other, only this time, it's not with the typical, naive, cutesy innocence of someone who really doesn't have a handle on haute cuisine nor the actual breadth and width of the island dining scene, but through the mind of a hired hit-man, an unbending perfectionist, an experienced world-traveler who has shred to pieces fine restaurants around the globe for a single julienne of carrot out of place or a waiter unable to answer questions regarding weather conditions the year of the wine selected on his ninth-course-pairing. Who really is the best, according to a mind like this?
In the few frantic seconds of thought before answering, I flash-back to my own conclusions regarding culinary excellence in the islands. Reflecting upon my own words, my own website, my own book - I find that in the Hawaii Regional Cuisine section, which is loaded with more A-level restaurants than any other, Alan Wong's gets top billing in that particular nook, with 3660 on the Rise and Chef Mavro's arriving-in at a close second. However, that's not necessarily the end of the story. The reason I've chosen Alan Wong's as Da Big Boy is that, yeah, the entire experience there is impeccable, but such is also the case at a small handful of other top restaurants. What gives him the nod is that his cozy spot on S. King St. simply oozes with island-style charm more than any other, his dishes incorporating more truly local items, whether deriving from a kicked-up edamame, Okinawa sweet potato, or faux lau-lau, than any other fine-dining Chef on the island. I know, I know - just about every other great Chef here will fuse the scent of Hawaii to their own brand of cuisine, but perhaps no one else does it quite so well, in such a natural, seemingly effortless, so indemically perfect way. Hence, Alan Wong's has received my top billing (for that section!). It is the Hawaii Regional Cuisine section, after all!
But like I said, that's not the whole story. Genuine, strong local ties are not necessarily the most important thing to everyone, you know, and furthermore, the Hawaii Regional Cuisine section is not the only place you'll find world-class fine-dining. La Mer at the Halekulani, especially, listed in the French section, would confuse the situation more than any other if placed next to the three spots mentioned above, while a few restaurants from other sections also crowd the waters, as well. I've never, ever made mention, nor dared to conclude (outside the limits of sections and categories, that is!) that any one restaurant on the island is truly the best. That all being said, the 64 million dollar question still remains - where, pray tell, shall I bring my snotty-new friend?
You really wanna know the answer? All-rightly then...
Eenie-meenie-maini-mo... There it is!!! To me, under these circumstances, I'd spin the bottle, play Russian roulette, or pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey, even, for all I care, when choosing between Alan Wong's, La Mer, or Chef Mavro's! The differences between the three are not vertical, but lateral, as far as I'm concerned. For island-style fusion excellence, Alan Wong's; for French/island-style fusion, Chef Mavro's; for old-world ambience and service in, once again, a French/island-style fusion, La Mer. So there you have it. I still can't name a single restaurant as the best, but in the world of Aku, however limited, I think I can safely name these three as top dogs (though I haven't been to Michel's yet!). Each can boast of a lion's share of local, national, and international awards and accolades, as evidenced by a section of wall just inside the door at Chef Mavro's:
Thus leaving the general question regarding who is best, let's instead switch to all the ooh's and aah's generated at the singular, granite-covered restaurant on the corner of S. King and McCully - the very conspicuously located and decored Chef Mavro's.
Born in sunny Marseilles, France, Chef George Mavrothalassitis fell in love with Hawaii all the way back in 1988, when he, on his first morning in Hawaii, overlooking beautiful Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head in the background, confidently declared "I'm home!" Ever since, he's been tearing-up the island food scene, and along with Chefs Alan Wong, Russel Siu, Roy Yamaguchi, Sam Choy, Jean-Marie Josselin, Pete Merriman, and a few more, was one of the principal architects in modern Hawaii Regional Cuisine. His reputation for only the very best ingredients, and a razor-sharp attention to the minutiae of every detail is legendary, to say the least. I, myself, had an appointment with him while representing a local farm's products back in the day, and believe me, even though he's one of the nicest, soft-spoken, humble folks you'll ever meet, he will not settle for compromise of any kind. All I remember him saying, in an almost fanatical way, was cost is no matter, only the very best ingredients!
With an already-proven record overseas, Chef Mavro was the executive Chef and driving force behind the rise of both La Mer and Seasons, at the Four Seasons Wailea, before opening his own restaurant in late 1998, where he remains comfortably nestled today. His menu is strictly a price-fixe arrangement, where courses of 3, 4, 6, or more are offered, as you'll soon see, each with an optional pairing of wine. However, I was told that they will accomodate a switch or two between single courses. If that's you, however, thinking you know better, please... Unless you're allergy-prone, you may as well just go with the flow, as each set of courses, of whatever size and number, are meticulously prepared to mix and blend into one giant, gastronomic pleasure trove, each building one upon the other to a final orgasmic climax. In fact, each quarter, Chef Mavro brain-storms with his trusted staff, where they carefully and thoughtfully select the types of dishes and the order of dishes presented, as well as the corresponding wine pairings.
Kumi and I dispensed with three, four, and six-course sets, instead going straight for the jugular with Chef Mavro's Grand Degustation meal, a cool 15-dish magical act of epic proportions. How could we not? But before even getting there, here's a quick look at our accomodations for the evening, which blends a soothing combination of contemporary island-style comfort along with a modern, slightly Mediterranean look and feel, the latter especially so in the inner, more dimly-lit section of the restaurant:
After being seated, we were treated to an amouse bouche of white almond gazpacho and pickled grapes. Normally a vegetable puree, and often called a liquid salad, this shot was served cold, a refreshing starter to begin the evening and whet our lips:
From here on-out, I'll simply list the dishes exactly as written on our personalized menus (personalized, meaning, quite simply, that our names were printed on the menus), as the language becomes a bit verbose and complicated for this local bruddah. I'll also then post a few pics and throw-in some comments, whether you like it or not! Sorry, keep me quiet after such an incredible meal? Not gonna happen! And so, are you ready for this...?
2nd Course - Maitake Mushroom Indochine
sauteed with green papaya, mushroom broth, sumida watercress, galangal, and kaffir lime.
Jermann, 2007 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia, Italy
Masterful, I tell you! Green papaya slivers? Galangal? Crunchy bits of thingamajiggie's, whatever they were? Chef caught me real good, right off the bat, these Maitake mushroom pieces arriving as richly and wonderfully-flavored as wild mushrooms aughta be, with a firm, crunchy texture and confidently pungent taste.
3rd Course - Escabeche of Big Island Abalone
marinated with coriander shaved vegetables, manchego cheese croquette, serrano ham, sun dried tomato sauce
Volrad's, 2004 Riesling, Rheingau
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Check out the detail on that escabeche of abalone! Mind you, they were just larger than a thumb-print, so microscopes are used in the construction process. Just kidding. But that's totally Zen, is all I can say... The slightly acidic marinade and almost raw, crunchy texture was the right fit for Kumi, who slowly peeled-off piece by semi-transluscent piece, savoring each moment to the hilt!
The Manchego cheese croquette was also deliciously interesting, and along with the yellow (huh?) sun-dried tomato sauce, both carried, to me, a sort of dry (not in a bad way!), Indian spice aspect to them, piquing my food-combo-imagination that much further!
4th Course - Hudson Valley Foie Gras au Torchon
crunch of spiced marcona almonds, granny smith tomato marmalade-baby kai choy, caramelized fig vinegar, toasted portuguese sweet bread
Fitz-Ritter, 2007 Gewurztraminer Spatlese, Pfalz
Aaah, Chef Mavro, what have you done to my beloved foie gras? Naaw, no worries - he's prepared it in the very traditional style of au torchon, where the entire organ is wrapped tightly in a towel such as cheesecloth, slow-cooked with steam (or poached), refrigerated, then sliced and served semi-cold or at room temperature. Our waiter, however, said it was cooked in a terrine, or shallow dish with vertical sides and a tight-fitting lid, with pressure applied on all sides during the cooking process, so I'm not sure if a cloth was necessarily used or not.
It was a very different style for me, my normal obsession with goose livers deriving from the hot, savory, pan-fried or baked versions, which you'll most commonly find at fine-dining establishments on the island. It definitely took some getting used to, at least for Kumi and I. The texture was like a semi-cold slice of butter, only with more substance, its body slowly and gently melting in the warmth of your mouth. I could still taste the essence of the foie gras, but only with a little concentration, and nowhere near the intense, rich flavors and aromas of a hot presentation.
Funny thing was, Kumi, who, as you know, has an extreme fondness for all things wild and savage, actually saw her foie gras as coming a little too wild and savage! Whaaa? I thought that that aim was your culinary purpose and goal in life?! Double-funny thing was, in one of the strangest culinary turn of events to date, I didn't, on the other hand, sense any wildness at all! Why??? Under normal circumstances, the Aku generally prefers all things wild and savage relegated to just a pinkie-toe on an entire leg, where you juuust notice its presence, and when it's juuust enough to tickle the palate, with only the faint passing of a slight aroma, a small tingle on the tongue, a tiny notice on the back-end. Yeah, I'm wild and savage and all, like a man exploring the dangers of a lion-infested, rhino-filled, leopard-haunted game reserve in Tanzania - only from the comforts of a brand-spankin' new, 4-wheel drive Land Rover that I never step foot out of, complete with driver! Why, then, on this particularly fabulous evening at Mavro's, was I was outside of the Land Rover, exploring the terrain, when Kumi was safely tucked inside? Just one of life's great mysteries, I guess!
But that's not saying I was totally secure in the open savannah and brush. Semi-cold organs, fat, or butter are not exactly my idea of pleasure and enjoyment. It was still a bit on the uncomfortable side, and I found it much more palatable in combination with the hot, grilled, butter-saturated brick of toasted sweet bread and sauce of apple tomato marmalade. But you know what I think made even more of a difference? The excellent, sweet Fitz-Ritter Gewurztraminer Spatlese, which I totally enjoyed and noticed more than any other non-dessert wine, despite it being a white! For those who haven't found how wine can totally enhance or change the flavors of food, I just had some friends over for a wine night, and one of our guests, who knew nothing about wine, sampled a type of soft cheese that he didn't care for at all. I, myself, found the same cheese just ok. After a couple of glasses of red wine, however, that same cheese was like a completely different dish, the sharpness, the depth, the rich, intense tones of the cheese really coming forward (and it ain't because we were drunk!). Along with crisp crackers and a touch of olive tapenade, the cheese didn't stand a chance after that point!
5th Course - Day Boat Catch Provencale
crusted with black olive, cured lemon, big wave tomato, capers, fines herbes, braised fennel, lemon thyme emulsion
Domaine De Chatenoy, 2006 Menetou-Salon, Loire
And what was the days' catch? Why, opakapaka, of course! What other cooked fish comes so highly-touted in the best island restaurants?! And this one did not dissapoint, except for the dishwasher soap one of the busboys accidently dropped on-top. Just kidding. You know that Chef Mavro loves to push the envelope, and foams, gelee's, fruit caviars, and other avante guarde preparations will always be a part of his game plan. Me, I don't care much at all for foams, while gelee's, I like, and lab-driven fruit caviars, I must say - I've never had before. It's anybody's guess as to which items will stick and still be around ten years from now, and which will perhaps fall into anonymity.
On the down side, this was the one wine selection I didn't particularly care for. I just found it a little too dry and astringent. On the up-side, I think I grew ten-fold in a single evening, at least in regards to wine, and all thanks to both Director/Sommelier Todd Ashline and John Wilson, both of whom were invaluably helpful in answering questions and dispensing a wealth of knowledge to my newly-invigorated wine soul. I found out that I probably prefer sweeter, fruitier wines with more body and punch, which are more characteristic of new world wines (US, South America, New Zealand, Australia, etc.) as opposed to old world wines (mainly France, Spain, and Italy), which are perhaps a bit dryer, and not quite as bold or flashy. It's no wonder, then, that I found the 2006 Menetou-Salon, hailing from France, not quite as pleasurable as other pairings, as John confirmed afterwards that it was a dryer type of selection.
And just to let you know, just because there are only two Master Sommelier's on the island, Richard Viernes and Chuck Furuya, that doesn't necessarily mean they are the two best Sommelier's around! Yes, without a doubt, you don't reach that level without separating yourself from the pack in a huge way, and it is the singular most prestigious title in the world of wine, but just don't be so quick to judge others who haven't earned the name yet, or choose not to, for whatever reason. I mean, the Court of Master Sommelier's, which administers the process, is a singular organization, and it's a very taxing endeavor, not only through study and many years of application in a fine restaurant of name value, but also through a whole lot of your own money. Out of the four separate series of tests to attain Master Sommelier status, Todd Ashline has already become a third degree sommelier, with only one step left. But as far as I could see, he very much looked the part of a humble, very contemplative, deep kind of guy, and not the type who needs a title to show on his sleeve. He already knows his stuff more than enough to achieve the position, having come from such esteemed empires as Wolfgang Puck's Spago and The Wild Boar in Nashville, TN, and is not even sure if he'll pursue it further or not.
On that same note, it was John Wilson who actually poured most of the wines on this stellar evening in Paradise. Now, if someone like me says that both John and Todd are sommelier-class guys, it probably means next to nothing, but if there's one fact you can't deny, it's that you don't pour wines at world-class Mavro's without the highest of qualifications, nor without having the complete trust of Chef Mavro, himself. Whatever the case, they're both super-cool guys, so be sure to talk to either of them yourself, whether you wanna learn more about wine, like me, or whether you are a sommelier, yourself!
6th Course - Tamarind Roasted Sablefish
celery, cucumber and red radish marinated in yogurt-loemon-extra virgin olive oil, puree of garlic flavored with espelette
Chateau Pouilly, 2006 Pouilly-fuisse, Cuvee 1551
You guessed it - butterfish! I can see why Chef Mavro utilizes this silky, oily fish, as it carries its own unique taste, different from just about any other fish. However, we in the islands are perhaps so used to the powerful shoyu/sugar/miso marinade and glaze of miso butterfish, I couldn't help but compare. I mean, those unaware of the Japanese version, or at least our slightly localized Japanese version, will no doubt enjoy the light, slightly sweet, glazed petite filet above, as did I, but if you ask me, I don't think anything can compare to a good 'ol miso butterfish!
7th Course - Keahole Lobster Paella
roasted red bell peppers, green olives, fried cilanto, lobster chorizo jus, saffron puff rice
Marc Colin, 2006 Saint Aubin 1 er cru la Chateniere
Forget lobster simply steamed or grilled and thrown on the table with newspapers, clubs, drawn butter, and lots of napkins! There are three different sections of lobster here, all tasting so different from eachother, I thought they were three different preparations completely! No, they were all done in the same fashion, then spooned with the same lobster chorizo jus. The contrasts between them, however, were stunningly entertaining and absolutely delightful. Usually, I don't care for pincer meat nearly as much as tail, as it is usually a bit gamier, but this time, I actually preferred it. The sliced button of tail meat, half-framed by a section of shell, was the firmest, cleanest, and perhaps most un-exciting of them all, while the claw meat was delicate, flakey-stringy, and sweet as can be, with just the pinkie-toe of wild gaminess I so much desire. I kinda liken the difference between a King crab (tail) and a snow crab (pincer), and let me say that, at the expense of a barrage of possible hate mail, I prefer a good, plus-sized snow over a giant King anyday of the week (and not the tiny, dried-out, over-salted versions often found on all-you-can-eat buffets around the island!)!
The final piece, a sort of worked-over, rough-cut portion of tail, was great in that it soaked-up all the delicious sauces and flavored vegetables placed on-top.
The three in combination? Exquisite.
The pairing? I forgot... (but I know it was good!!!)
8th Course - Roasted Kurobuta Pork Loin
cured and crisped pork belly, fresh wasabi flavored green apple, puree of parsnips, sweet and sour pork jus
AF Gros, 2003 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits
The legendary black pig of Japanese lore is often so fatty, it just gets waaay out of hand sometimes! Luckily, this version at Mavro's didn't come with any thick bands of pure animal grease, but from meatier sections, the fatty marbling no doubt rendered down to an extent. Defeating the purpose of a fatty pig, maybe, but that's a good thing, as far as I'm concerned. I can never get enough beef fat, but pork fat? Only to a degree.
Puree of parsnips mixed with that Orientalish type of sweet sour sauce were a delicious complement to the soft, lusciously tender pork, acting almost like an Asian mashed potatoes with gravy! But the best part of this dish was the super-crispy skin, which carried all the decadence of a duck skin prepared in the finest Chinese restaurant. Another creative, well-put-together, imagination-stroking course!
9th Course - 100 Percent Wagyu Beef
strip loin, burgundy braised short ribs, cream of swiss chard, panisse batons, fresh waimanalo green peppercorn and sansho sauce
Clos de Marquis, 2003 St. Julien
No, I'm not gonna sit here and dissertate on Wagyu beef all day, but I cannot tell you how often I've heard restaurants say that they are the only ones bringing in a 100 percent Wagyu beef! Wagyu simply means Japanese cow, so that's much too broad a term. Furthermore, are they saying the beef is actually imported from Japan (currently illegal!), or that it's a Japanese breed, bred elsewhere? Give me a specific name, like Kobe, Miyazaki, Saga, etc., and I'll take notice, but simply stating Wagyu doesn't say much at all. But aaah, no worries - the final say is all about how good the meat actually tastes, is all! And how was this particular steak at Chef Mavro's? Well... I loved the taste, don't get me wrong, as well as almost everything about it - beautiful pinkish center, juices bursting, a soft texture, a lean (I wanna say clean) flavor and cut - everything, just about! It's just that I thought the only thing missing was - it wasn't quite as fatty as I expected. I mean, you talk about a Japanese cow, and you do mean the kind with more white than red, no?
But I guess that's only my definition and preference, and there's plenty of room for interpretation. Both the strip loin and the burgundy-braised short rib were yet excellent. It was but another fantastic way to highlight and feature more than one presentation on a single type of food (beef), one simple and pure to really appreciate the natural taste of the meat; the other slow-cooked in rich flavors that penetrate and soak deeply. Though there were 15 courses, as you've probably noticed, many of them came with two or three different main dish items rolled into one! Simply amazing.
10th Course - Colorado Lamb
roasted lamb loin, "vadouvan" of beluga lentils with lamb bacon, confit cherry tomato and garlic, winter savory lamb jus
Tinto Pesquera, 2006 Crianza Ribera Del Douro
The tiny touch of gaminess I've been mentioning on this page is perhaps no more acute nor obvious than when referring to lamb. Often a love-it-or-hate-it affair, I can still remember my very first attempt at cooking this intriguing protein, in the form of a few large, drumstick-looking shanks that I stewed in fresh-cut, over-ripe tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and a few veggies. It was one of the most horrible things I'd ever made, with a potent gaminess that made it completely inedible. Perhaps I should have consulted a cookbook! However, I can also remember the first time I had actually eaten lamb, at the old Aqua restaurant in the Waikiki Marriott Hotel, when it was still the Hawaiian Regent Hotel. Though nearly twenty years ago, I still remember how incredible it was, a true epiphany of an experience, not only because it was on that very night that I was first awakened to the magic of how just one or two alcoholic beverages (that night, it was beer!) can enhance and affect the outcome of a dish, but also to the power of a good lamb.
Too much gaminess, and it's ruined; too little gaminess, and it becomes boring - may as well order steak! But there's a reason lamb is served even after steak or pork, and a reason lamb has one of the strongest yang, or male attributes, in the food world. That make-it-or-break-it gaminess should come with a controlled sense of wildness, only not to the degree of my first attempt at stewed lamb shanks, which all went straight to the gaaah-bedge!
Chef Mavro's Colorado lamb was a bit on the lighter side of gaminess levels, perhaps a tad too light for me, even. But like everything else here, it was prepared, cooked, presented, and complemented impeccably well, the soft meat yet bursting with juicy flavors and the kicked-up lentils a classic combination.
11th Course - Big Island Goat Cheese Quenelle
lemon verbana-watermelon rind chutney, poppy seed biscuit, hirabara greens
Millesime, 2005 Saumur Champigny, Loire
Who knows, maybe after all these elegant dishes, perhaps my taste buds were a little shot by now, as I really had to concentrate to sense much of any cheesiness at all. Kumi, on the other hand, loved the dish, and said the goat cheese actually did shine through more than adequately. So there you have it. Guess everyone's different!
12th Course - Pre-Dessert of Tuscany Melon in Champagne Jello
I guess it was just a little palate cleanser to separate the savory meals above from the sweet desserts that follow. The tiny logs of melon in clear jello were, well - fun to eat, the cool glass server a pleasant departure from the ivory-white plates of every other meal. I guess it's all about the food, especially when you're doing something this complicated and elaborate, but I would have loved to see some of the other courses featured on plates of other shapes and designs, as well, just for, you know, a little Wow factor. Uncouth, unsophisticated, hooked on flash and pizzaz, am I?
I said just a little, geez!
13th, 14th, and 15th Courses - Dessert Time!
One of the benefits of the Grand Degustation meal is that you get every single dish offered during the particular quarter, including all three desserts! And as you can see, each dessert course came with two different items, to boot!
13th Course - Marinated Date Tarte
Orange blossom mascarpone mousse, almond crisp, citrus sauce, cinnamon ice cream, cardamom syrup
Olivares, 2006 Dulce Monastrell, Jumilla
Beginning with the top-right background, and moving to the foreground, was my favorite thing on the plate! Unlike the goat cheese earlier, I did taste the super-rich, super-indulgent mascarpone mousse, which was phenomenal! Mascarpone is an expensive cheese made from creme fraiche, a type of sour cream used in higher-end dishes and desserts. Excellent in tandem with the crunchy almond crisp, even without the sweet cinnamon ice cream!
14th Course - Lilikoi Malasadas
guava coulis, pineapple-coconut ice cream
Blandy's, Malmsey Madeira, 5 Year
A bit of a specialty here, having been on the menu for ages and receiving numerous awards throughout the years. Me, I didn't care for it as much as the other two, however, as I found the lilikoi filling a bit too sweet and the malasada a bit too rich in butter (or was it another type of oil?).
15th Course - Chocolate and Banana
chocolate and banana creme caramel, chinese almond decadence
Warres, Otima, 10 Year Tawny
Not too sweet, not too bitter, but juuust right, was this particular chocolate treat! The sweetness and vanilla/creamy balance came from the ice cream, instead. Excellent.
You really didn't need much sweetness on any dessert at all, actually, as the three pairings presented were all very sweet in themselves, as dessert wines should be. In just another example of how foods can affect wines and wines can affect foods, I was sure, at least in the beginning, that the first glass of Dulce Monastrell was my favorite, its sweet, very fruity, deep-purple, full-bodied taste instantly appealing to me more than the other two, which both took on the more bronzed perplexion of tawny ports. As our smorgasboard of sweet treats continued-on, however, it became just as clear that my favorite was not at all the first, but the second, a Madeira! What's the deal??? It carried all the sweetness of Port, but without too much of that oftentimes pruney, even li-hing-mui type of taste, which can be a little too sweet, a little too heavy and thick. This one seemed to carry all the better attributes of a robust Port, but in a dryer, more drinkable, slightly less fruity representation.
I learned so much from both Todd and John on this night, and I forgot who it was that told us the interesting story of the Madeira wine. It's unique, bronzed flavor comes from its days on ancient ocean crossings, where it was housed in wooden barrels. Crossing's being as long as they were, the barrels were exposed to successive bouts of both heat from the sun as well as the frigid temperatures of cold ocean nights. This constant cooking and cooling of the wine changed its very taste and composition, and thus today, Madeira wine is now made in temperature-controlled rooms that alternate between heat and cold, and are also deliberately exposed to higher oxidation levels to further develop the rustic, robust properties of the wine. Way cool stuff. I was so encouraged by Todd, John, and this whole experience at Mavro's, I went ahead and planned a wine night at our house only days later! With the help of the friendly folk down at Fujioka's, at the Market City Shopping Center, I picked-up an excellent, sweet white wine (about $20) to go with some seared scallops, and, of course, a Madeira (just over $40)! Go down and try either of them - they are both spectacular!
A Grand Degustation Meal at Chef Mavro's is a culinary marvel with the precision and planning of a giant engineering project. 15 elaborate, exquisite courses sewn-together flawlessly over the course of three to three-and-a-half hours? Simply amazing.
But before I go, I know you all were wondering... What's the damage, monetarily speaking. Well... Two beers, two Degustation meals, and one shared wine pairing came to a total of, including a $100 tip... Five-hun-red and fifty-five big one's!!! Easily the most expensive meal either of us have ever had! Of course, you can get away with course menus much, much less expensive here at Mavro's, if you so prefer. And yeah, it was quite extreme, but you know what? Considering the unbelievable care and planning given to each of the 15 courses, the plethora of fine wines, the immensely important benefit of expert pairings, the order of events, the atmosphere, the service - everything, both Kumi and I can confidently say it was well worth the cost. Dining on this level doesn't come cheap, and if you want the very best, it can only be found on a few spots on the island, one of which is definitely Chef Mavro's.
Hat's off to Todd Ashline, John Wilson, Chef de Cuisine Kevin Chong, and most of all, Chef George Mavrothalassitis! The islands are indebted to you for your declaration on that warm summer day from the shores of beautiful Waikiki Beach, and we are thankful for your many years devoted to raising the quality of cuisine here to levels all of us in Hawaii can be proud of!
Any day, Mr. Snotty Magazine guy from the Mainland...
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