Manapua
Manapua is the local version of char siu bao, only much bigger, and is a red-colored, Chinese sweet/sour pork enclosed and steamed in a white flour bun. Back in the day, they were sold in tin cans by barefoot peddlers roaming the streets, later graduating to mobile vans that frequented schools and business sites. While Mainland kids all remember ice cream trucks, here we remember “the manapua man,” as well, who sold the steamed buns along with other snacks, candies, and treats. Today, there are many variations of manapua. A baked variety is available in certain stores and are golden brownish instead of white, while such modern manapua concoctions as kalua pig, curry, hamburger, and spicy eggplant can also be found.
Being Chinese in origin, manapua can also be found at many Chinese restaurants on the island. The spots listed here more or less specialize in this uniquely local item.
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A cross-section of a manapua shows the red char-siu pork on the inside. Traditionally steamed, though the golden-brown baked variety sitting behind it has also become quite popular. |
Along with manapua, there are also other dim sum treats usually sold alongside at these shops. They are pork hash, a standard pork/shrimp/onion mix that is stuffed into won ton shells and steamed; half-moon, which is steamed in a thicker wrapping and its contents crispy from chunks of water chestnut; pepeiao, which is basically the same except with a differently shaped wrapper; ma tai soo, a small baked bun filled with pork; and rice cake, which is a dessert dish of sweetened rice cooked down, chilled to harden, and sliced like a cake. There are two versions of this treat, one which is dense and has a thin brown layer on the top, but I prefer the all-white version with tiny, random holes throughout its “body” clearly visible, similar to a sponge. There are other items as well, especially at the Chinatown locations, but these are the most popular ones.
Da Big Boy’z: Too close to call.
| Mixed box from Char Hung Sut - manapua, 3 types of stuffed mochi, 2 types of rice cake, half moon, pepeiao, and ma tai soo - all popular at manapua houses. |
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Char Hung Sut. A Closer Look. 64 N. Pauahi st. in Chinatown. 538-3335. Open daily from 5:30am-1:45pm or until out of product, except closed Tuesday. Parking on street or any municipal lot around Chinatown or Downtown. Cash only. Prices: $. Map. This little take-out-only shop was the first to enlarge their char siu bao, which makes them the originators of local manapua. They have been producing it along with other Chinese dim sum products since 1945. The manapua here is a little less greasy than other places, as the pork filling within does not have as much fat, but the meat-to-bun ratio is one of the highest there is, making it one of your most popular manapua stops. It's best to call-in, as it gets very busy and they usually run out of product by noon, but sometimes earlier.
Royal Kitchen. 100 N. Beretania st. at the Chinese Cultural Plaza in Chinatown. 524-4461. Monday-Friday 5:30am-4:30pm, Saturday 6:30am-4:30pm, Sunday 6:30am-2:30pm. Parking on street or any municipal parking lot around Chinatown or downtown. Prices: $. Map. This is the best-known spot for the light, golden-brown covering that baked manapua is famous for, and comes in a slightly sweeter, more fatty (and thus tastier!) pork filling. There is also a cafeteria-style counter that offers Chinese plate lunch choices. It is located on the wide walkway on the River side of the Chinese Cultural Plaza, where elderly folks enjoy card games of mah-jong or pipito, along with the homeless population and some often shady-looking characters.
Chun Wah Kam Noodle Factory. 2 locations: 505 Kalihi st. in Kalihi (map shown), 841-5303. Monday-Friday 6am-4pm, Saturday 7am-4:30pm, Sunday 7am-12pm, parking difficult in small parking lot or on street; and 98-040 Kamehameha Hwy. at the Waimalu S.C. in Pearl City, Monday-Friday 8:30am-7pm, Saturday 7:30am-7pm, Sunday 8:30am-4pm, parking in center lot. Prices: $. Map. Besides all the manapua and dim sum, they also have a large selection of other Chinese food items like beef/broccolli, spicy eggplant, and sweet/sour spare ribs, all arranged cafeteria-style right before your eyes. You can pick whatever looks good under those hot lights and make a plated meal out of it. The Kalihi location is take-out only. The new Waimalu Center store has simple tables to dine-in if you choose.
Island Manapua Factory. 2 locations: 2752 Woodlawn dr. at the Manoa Marketplace in Manoa (map shown), Monday-Friday7:30am-8pm, Saturday 7:30am-7pm, Sunday 8:30am-5:30pm; and 811 Gulick Ave. in Kalihi, 847-2677, Monday-Saturday 5:30am-3pm, Sunday 7am-1pm.; and Parking outside both locations. Prices: $. Map. Another place known for having baked manapua. There has been a change of ownership, but the wide variety of manapua, dim sum, and Chinese plate lunch choices are all still available at great prices without having to go into Chinatown.
Libby’s Manapua Shop. 410 Kalihi st. in Kalihi. 841-2253. 6am-2pm daily, except closed on Monday. Limited parking or on street. Prices: $. Map. Located Oceanside of Chun Wah Kam on the same street. The manapua here tastes as well as anywhere else but they are a little skimpy on the meat inside. The rest of the dim-sum treats like pork hash, half-moon, and rice cake are all great.
U-Choice Inn. 801 Kaheka st. at the Food Court of Don Quijote in McCully/Moiliili. 973-4800. Parking fronting store. Prices: $. Map. This operation, like many others here, serves Chinese foods cafeteria-style (though there are also items made to order), along with manapua and other dim sum products like pork hash, crispy wonton or gau gee, and half moon. It sometimes seems like there is a lot of bread, but that's probably more because these are the biggest manapua's you'll see anywhere. Location outside of Don Quijote is very convenient, with ample parking in main lot or overflow lot across the street – the lot does get crowded, but I’ve never-once been denied a spot, even in the main parking area.
Po Sing Kitchen. 94-780 Meheula Parkway at the Mililani Marketplace in Mililani. 623-9878. 9:30am-8:30pm daily. Parking in center lot. Prices: $. Map. Po Sing has an interesting blend of Chinese and, you guessed it, Indian items. There are actually only one or two Indian items, most often curries, mixed in with Chinese specialties like pork bittermelon and beef broccoli. The manapua is a bit on the sweet side, as is the pork hash, which is small but tasty.
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