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Magoos Pizza, a closer look
Aloha!
6/2/09 - University Ave. used to be quite the happening spot just about every night of the week, and why, oh why not? There's a science involved, a certain alchemy, a few specific elements that always, always produces given results, and if it's a party you want, just a handful of ingredients is all you really ever need - try lots of University students, super-cheap alcohol (99 cent mugs and $5 pitchers), and Magoo's old-fashioned pizza! Quite the volatile mix, indeed, and did I forget to mention over 100 varieties of tap?! Without a doubt, Magoo's was in a class of its own until Yard House in Waikiki debuted a couple of years ago, with their state-of-the-art, inter-state freeway of malt-carrying lines, and whose grand opening, by the way, corresponded with the approximate time of the University locations' closing, as well. Coincidence? My guess is as good as your's...
And speaking of party'ing, had a few kind and very beautiful friends over , mostly from wifey's workplace, the location of which I won't disclose, lest some crazy stalker get any ideas. Despite my experimental dish of shrimp that was supposed to work exactly like the brilliant masterpiece I saw in my head before-hand, of which I ended up completely chucking, there was still plenty of food to go around, and, as always - lots of beer! But even more so, it's all about great company - these girls were all super-cool and really fun to be around. Thanks everyone, you folks are all a blast to hang out with! The guys? What guys? You didn't notice any guys...
I know you'd all rather see more pictures of gorgeous women, but we do have to move on, you know...
Oh, and shout's to Shannon for informing me that lei chic.com, a huge website on fashion and, quite literally, just about every other subject under the Hawaiian sun, mentioned Aku Eats on their site, along with a few other great food blogs out there. You may not find the actual page since it's so huge, but here it is: http://www.leichic.com/Food-Drink/Restaurants/Biting-Commentary.
And finally, let's get back to some serious pizza!
Yes, the University location, in all its legendary revelry, did close down, but the food itself lives on, in the curious form of several different lunch wagons! One's actually still located only steps away from the former site, inside the parking lot just mauka (mountain-side) a bit, but tonight, I hit another location, on 2121 S. King St., right next to McDonald's.
Magoo's does have a kind of quirky, misunderstood reputation and history, since it's been around for ages and has been represented in a few anomolous, highly mutatable forms, depending on the era - first, there were super-casual fast-food outlets (with look-down, 25 cent Space Invader games, a huuuge part of the former Magoo's experience!), then a popular bar/grill, and now - well, you already know. It's been claimed, at different times, with vibe's that run from having a super-local feel to an eclectic, Bohemian, struggling-artist type of character. Youngster's may not be too familiar with the place, but I can almost guarantee that everyone above 35 years of age has a special place in their heart for this icon-of-sorts. My sister, who barely makes it into that category, swears by this place, saying it reminds her of a pie from small-kid day's.
Yes, it does kinda remind me of the past, when pizza meant English muffins, canned tomato sauce, sliced Mozzarella/cheddar cheese, and the toaster oven, but then again, do I really wanna go back there, even?
I'm sorry, but despite the cherished and nostalgic sense of warm-fuzzie's so many people have for this place, the actual pizza doesn't really do much for me. And just for disclosure's sake, this next shot did come from a box that was sitting for, oh, perhaps an hour or so before being opened. I tried giving it a fresher appearance and better taste by allowing it some time basking under hot oven lights, but still, the shot doesn't really look as good as it does fresh.
But it's not just tonight - I've had it many, many times before, including right-out-of-the-oven-fresh at the old brew pub disguised as a pizza joint, and it still didn't work for me, at least in the past decade or so. The same reasons my sister loves it so much are the same rationale that seem to have the exact opposite effect on this local boy. The batter's hard and dense, and the use of yellow cheddar on the very top layer really, really reminds me of something I made eon's ago, while playing hookie and watching the Flinstone's and Jetson's. When it comes down to it, though, I can always eat pizza, and I wouldn't hesitate eating this pie above any day of the week. Comparatively speaking, however, it's just not one of my favorite's.
For me, the silver lining at Magoo's comes not from their pizza at all, but through these man-sized meals:
Magoo's sandwiches don't carry no sliced-supermarket breads, the kind for eating at the office with a whole lotta alfalfa and no mayo whatsoever - these-here behemoths are perfect for the real man in you, packed tightly in layers of foil and plastic like a cave-man's billy-club. Whatever innards there are, are sure to come oozing-out in gooey lumps and meaty chunks. Again, keep in mind that we've opened-up these sandwiches about an hour after being packed, so things may not look quite as fresh as I'd liked, just in case you see any overly-incorporated amalgams or mushy buns (of which there was suprisingly little of, considering how long they've been enclosed with such runny filler's).
The cut loaves in the background come from a Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, which came with tender, juicy cuts of roast beef, mushrooms, bell peppers, onions, and, of course, lots and lots of cheese to get all over the place! It was a great taste that was, in fact, reminiscent of a good Alfredo, the cheese almost turning into a super-rich cream sauce that matched perfectly with the bell peppers, mushrooms, and roast beef, the flavors for each showing-up highly pronounced and flavorful. However you explain this sandwich, bold is the operating word here...
But my all-time favorite, and one I like to prepare at home after copying Magoos' creation, is the hot ham and mushroom sandwich. The only way I can see this classic getting any better is by using thinner slices of ham that fold-up in all angles like a tightly-crinkled newspaper, as the slices here come thick, hearty, and layered straight-on, like a fresh newspaper, of the non-crinkled variety. But then again, unlike wifey, I'm not a big ham fan, so this may prove as a plus for some.
Besides ham and those giant buns are generous portions of mushroom, cheddar, mozzarella, mustard, and mayo. The flavors in this combination work like magic, lemme tell ya, and no matter how many conflicting opinions there are on the pizza, as I've heard sooo many from both the positive and negative side's over the years, one thing we can all seem to agree on is that this hot ham and mushroom sandwich rule's! To this day, I haven't found a single person who hasn't had good things to say about it.
I've used the term old-fashioned quite a bit tonight, and that's with good reason. Orders here may not be the prettiest, but they are all large, relatively inexpensive, and full of old-school charm, in a no-fluff, get-your-hands-dirty type of way, and with not a care in the world about the belt-line, except for the fact that you may have to loosen your top button when eating here! With items like those above as well as the next shot, which comes from a garlicky, super-cheesy, super-buttery, herb-topped, crispy loaf of bread, they sure aren't for the squeamish, but for pure flavor, they're tough to beat!
Magoo's Pizza does live on! But only for a specific type of taste, that is, and I've already explained that taste, so... in parting, next-up is one last shot, a closer look at the wagon, itself.
Hope you've all had a great and fabulous weekend - I'm still recuperating!
Take care and Aloha till next time!
Aku
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Comments:
Old Hippie (7/2/10) I had one of these a few weeks ago for the first time in years. It tasted just like the ones I used to order over the years, starting when I was a student at UH back in the early 70's, through the disco years, and into the 80's. Doesn't seem to have changed a bit, which is a good thing. Every bite brought back memories of my youth. I'm going to continue ordering these because at my age, every little reminder of my youth is precious. Besides, these thing are still mammoth. Man, that box was heavy, pizza was packed with cheese and toppings. Love it!
Aku (7/3/10) Yes, it definitely reminds me of my youth, as well! I went as an elementary school kid to the Hawaii Kai location where we played space invaders and all the older employees (high school age!) would drink in the store near and after closing time. Memories, for sure!
Doug B. (8/4/09) - Aku, They still have a Magoos in Aiea across from Youngs Kalbi.
Aku (8/4/09) - Thanks Doug - do you know if they have beer there like the one at University, or is it just pizza and fixin's? And I heard Young's Kalbi is really good. I know you all down on that side all know about Young's, but to tell you the truth, from Aiea and out, I'm not nearly as aware as I am in the town area!
Doug B. (8/5/09) - I think it's pretty much just the food stuff, no bar.
N. Kim (7/29/09) - why are locals online saying they're closed? on FLICKR, there was a photograph of the sign on the door at Magoo's stating they were closed for remodeling purposes (?!) what gives??
Aku (7/29/09) - Thanks for the head's-up - which location of Magoo's are you referring to? If it's the one on University Ave., which was the most popular one, they are definitely closed, because a new bar/grill already opened up in its place called The Varsity. There were numerous newspaper articles in the past, and they all stated that Magoo's was closing their brick and mortar locations in place of up to ten Mobile wagons. I'm guessing the picture on flickr was probably old, but who knows? You never know if one day the owner decides to open a new brick and mortar spot, but as far as I know, that's not in the works for Magoo's.
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