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Kennys, a closer look
Aloha!
7/24/08 - Aaaah, fish. Lovely, lovely fish. Sensitively handled, delicately cooked, omega-3 rich, flaky-white fish. It is probably the most sophisticated of the major protein sources, showing up in posh locales and bistros as un-offendingly clean steaks or fillets with pinkish centers and drizzled in buttery cream sauces with French names, enough to satisfy just about every dark-rimmed-glass-wearing, latte-drinking, strange art-loving, modern outside/hippy inside urbanite around. Unless, that is, you've really taken a stand and gone full vegan. But that's a whole 'nother story.
Whatever images the word conjures up in your mind would probably be dependant on where in this great, wide world you came from. The Brits may think huge vats of hot oil, batter, malt vinegar, and chips. Indians may invoke memories of fresh rohu and hilsa, simmering with touches of garam masala, turmeric, and coriander in a spicy and exotic curry mix. Hail from the south of France and it's all about bouillabaisse, with it's haughty stew of fennel, saffron, and olive oil. And who wouldn't know what fish means for the Japanese, famous the world over for discarding the entire cooking process altogether and whose only condiments of choice are a nasal-jarring green paste and a fermented soybean liquid turned black?
But what does the term "fish" invoke in the heart of Kalihi Valley? And don't be going the tilapia route. More than anything else, it would probably summon thoughts of the Kam Shopping Center - Kenny's, to be exact. This is where the locals come to get their fill of fish, but not just any fish. Forget the large, foo-foo slabs of boneless, white meat fit for Downtown secretary's and collared shirts. It's all about pan-fry-sized, reef-dwelling, eye's-staring-at-you, bamboo pole kinds of fish - head, tail, fins, and all! Some of them are so small they may have to give you two or three of them to make one plate!
There are Hawaiian names galore that hit home to many growing up here in the islands - mamo, aholehole, weke, kole, opelu, aweoweo, halalu, and more. What local boy doesn't have fond memories of any or all of these tongue-twisters? Fun-filled excursions with dad and grandpa down to the rocky beach or harbor are indelibly etched into my mind, that's for sure, giant schools of glittering silver often gathering, waiting to be plucked from the water with 2 lb. test line and #15 hooks. Life just doesn't get any better than a lazy late-afternoon down by the sea, hands stink with the smell of shrimp bait and fish slime. The only bad part was cleaning and scaling the tiny creatures. But deep-fried catch-of-the-day, with a touch of shoyu and a steaming-hot pot of fluffy white rice, was reward and pride enough to completely forget the necessary prep work beforehand.
Kenny's has a menu that changes according to what the fishermen bring in. I was hoping for a crack at moi, the prized fish reserved for only the Alii in days past. Unfortunately, it wasn't available. A small add-on to the menu is always there to list the different choices on any given day.
It arrived looking very much like the impressive dish I thought it might be, with a large mound of shredded head lettuce topped with cold teri-chicken pieces, char siu, peanuts, wonton chips, and Chinese parsley. Unfortunately, to wifey and I, it's look was the best thing it had going for it. To be fair, we did finish the entire salad and it did taste good, but in light of an oriental chicken salad in any Chinese restaurant? Doesn't really stack up. The lettuce was a bit on the soggy side, especially down at the bottom, where sat a deep puddle of overly-sweet dressing. There were a lot of peanuts to provide some crunch, but not nearly enough wonton strips. I think I know why - have you seen how much those things cost, even at Costco? I would think an enterprising person could easily undercut them by half and still maintain a healthy profit margin.
And the legendary size was comparable to or larger than a Pacific Rim or other similiar restaurant, but was actually a bit smaller than the chicken salads I've had at Chinese restaurants. Again, not that it was a bad dish, just one that, at about $10, isn't one that I'd be bragging about.
I found it both attractive and casual, a very comfortable place to kick back and enjoy the wide variety of menu items offered. Just of few of them are seafood omelets, eggs Benedict, steak 'n eggs, corned beef hash, and buttermilk pancakes for breakfast; burgers, Philly cheese steak sandwiches, panini's, and wonton meins for lunch; oxtail soup, chicken sukiyaki, liver w/bacon and onion, teriyaki ribeye, and prime rib for dinner; apple dumplings, Boston cream pies, hot fudge sundaes, banana royales, and even Smore's for dessert! Yes, you don't have to be out in the woods to enjoy that campfire classic of toasted marshmallows, melted chocolate, and graham crackers.
I once foolishly discounted cabbage, because of its bland color, as not one of the healthiest vegetables around. I mean, compared to the bright reds of Swiss Chard, vibrant oranges of pumpkin or butternut squash, dark greens of kale or collards, deep purples of sweet potato, and blood-reds of a healthy beet root, you gotta admit, cabbage can seem a bit boring. But oh, how wrong I was. This humble-looking staple comes loaded with Vitamin C and beta-carotene, not to mention the other cancer-preventing, free-radical-munching properties it carries. Wifey and I are always whipping up a good head of regular or Makina cabbage, simply stir-frying whole chopped heads in olive oil and salt. And the fiber factor? Huuuge.....
The reason these small reef fish are so tasty is that there are no large, dense packets of flesh, only tiny pockets of delicate meat with the huge advantage of always being close to bone, skin, fin, organ, or other savage kind of tissue - all of which provide much more taste than the sometimes boring slabs on a larger fish. Dealing with the bones and scales left behind near the head or fins can be an ordeal for those not accustomed, but like the bother of shells on a crab, very much worth it.
You looking at me?
I'm guessing they specifically say "red" weke because the white version of weke is infamous for sometimes causing the terrifying hallucinogenic dreams and sicknesses, kinda like a really bad acid trip. They get so bad they are commonly called obake (ghost) weke. I do know a few people, though, that I have a sneaking suspicion would somehow turn it into a good trip, a walk through magical forests of polka-dot mushrooms, dancing fairies, giant beanstalks reaching to the clouds (without the giant), and strawberry cream rivers with chocolate sprinkles floating down. Don't try it, though - most of us will probably see Freddy Krueger, the Grim Reaper, and Gary Coleman all rolled up into one.
Wifey's akule came with lemon and a small cup of daikon oroshi, or finely-grated daikon. I guess Akule is a little different for her, coming from Japan, so all was well. It was excellent, by the way, as the rest of the fish in this special section usually are here.
Despite the overhaul and renovations in design, this is one of those old-time diners that go waaay back, complete with no-nonsense, overly casual tutu waitresses that you will either adore or want to avoid - either way, don't mess with 'em! They'll tell you how life really is as quick as your own auntie will grab and twist you by the nose with the knuckles of her index and middle fingers!
Exaggeration? Maybe. You'll get the same at Likelike, Columbia Inn, Hungry Lion, Wailana, and all the other classic local-style diners that have been around a long time. Personally, I think with all the years some of the old-time waitresses have put in, and all the crazy customers they've had to deal with, I'd just as well give them the benefit of the doubt. It's aaall good! It all adds to the charm if you just go with the flow and take a chill pill once in a while. Maybe a good massage? I don't know.
Anyhow, time for me to go. More adventures to pursue, more interests to fulfill. If I didn't have to sleep, I'd bring you a story every day.
Take care and Aloha till next time!
