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Izakaya
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Typical of the small dishes that offer more variety in a meal and are very conducive to drinks - a slimy mix of ahi/uni/natto/yama-imo from Ojiya and watercress salad from Gaku.
Please Note: There are a number of great sushi houses that also carry a full line of izakaya items, as well! Both sections are very similiar!
As sushi has been in the mainstream for a while, I believe the next big craze from Japan to hit the world will be the izakaya restaurants, which have already reached other major U.S. cities and have been quietly establishing a presence in Honolulu. The izakaya stops of today came from the numerous tiny pubs and hole-in-the-walls that still line the small streets of any Japanese city, catering mostly to salary men looking for drinks and some food on the side. These locales were historically low-cost, every day, simple establishments where drinks of choice were sake and shochu, a smooth drink with a potency stronger than wine but weaker than hard liquor. Patrons became such regular’s that they actually left unfinished bottles at the restaurant for consumption on a later visit, and is a practice continued to this day, as evidenced by rows of half-full bottles that can often be found behind the bar or counter, all of which have hand-written names and dates Magic Marker’d on the labels.
Currently, the winds of change have brought us a new generation of izakaya restaurants as well. They are very stylish outfits blending an edgy, urban sophistication to go along with the traditional Japanese dishes and undertones. They are the new vogue, where ultra-chic doesn’t mean hyper-expensive and pretentious, as in Gucci or Prada, but casually sophisticated and stylish, as in Banana Republic or Abercrombie and Fitch. They are fun and contemporary, often playing jazzy, modern beats that attract professionals, date nights, or small groups of socialites. This same vibe can be found in other sections as well, such as Yakiniku Hiroshi’s from the yakiniku section and even Matsugen from the ramen section.
Not all izakaya’s, however, are of this ultra-modern type. Some remain true to the old-time Japanese “salary man” style, while yet others are a healthy blend of both worlds. Regardless, they are all perfect for the same groups of people looking for something a little different. Prices are not listed for this section, as full-sized entrees are not the norm. Rather, a large variety of smaller-portioned dishes similar to tapas are offered at prices averaging between $4-$8 each, but can vary greatly depending on the item.
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Small, classy, but oftentimes simple dishes like this kabocha pumpkin are found at Imanas tei. |
Imanas Tei. A Closer Look. 2626 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 941-2626. Dinner nightly till 11:30pm, except closed on Sunday. Parking very, very limited fronting store. Map. If you are lucky enough to find parking in the six spots they offer or on the street, you are in for a real treat. I would offer you back-up parking solutions, but they all break the rules at nearby establishments. Imanas-Tei was the first in the islands to really establish itself as a new-wave izakaya restaurant, and has become an island institution, both for locals and Japanese nationals. Choose from the large list of small dishes and sushi, or order a boiling pot of hot nabe, one of their specialties, where meat, seafood, and vegetables are added to a boiling broth right at your table. The dishes here are clean, simple, and elegant, and regarding both the food and atmosphere, Imanas Tei is a stylish blend of traditional and progressively modern Japanese cuisine.
| A change of ownership has brought about a much wider variety of menu choices here at Izakaya Nonbei in Kapahulu. |  |
Izakaya Nonbei. A Closer Look. 3108 Olu St. in Kapahulu. 734-5573. Dinner and late-night till 11pm nightly, except closed on Tuesday. Parking in small lot outside store or on street. Map. Izakaya Nonbei once felt almost like walking into a small village restaurant in the country, but recently, they've under-gone a change of management, and apparently, for the better! Now, they've installed a full sushi bar, featuring both old-school and new-wave varieties, as well as most of the favorites this spot has always been known for, such as hamachi kama (the gill area, or collar, of the yellow-tail amberjack), karei karaage (deep-fried whole flounder), shrimp tempura, and sashimi. With a new Chef from the old Kyo-Ya restaurant in Waikiki and a competent management team, you can be assured of a large, diverse menu and quality levels that are very high, indeed.
Gaku. A Closer Look. 1329 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 589-1329. Dinner and late-night till 11pm nightly, except closed on Sunday. Parking on street. Map. Chef/owner Manabu Kikuchi has left the very popular Imanas Tei after a 10-year stint to open up a new-style izakaya place of his own. The same quality of food is evident here, as dishes are all done with the same taste and creativity he helped foster at his former hotspot locale. The sheer excellence of his sushi and also dishes like dried skate w/mayo, negihama tartare, candied Kabocha pumpkin, garlic ribeye, basil tako, and ankimo w/ponzu gelee, to name a few, are the reason it's very difficult to find an open table without a decent wait! And in case you're asking, there are no down periods, from open to close - it's always busy! The place can get quite festive, with many hip, young Japanese nationals as well as locals partying to drinks and excellent Japanese cuisine.
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Tokkuri tei on Kapahulu ave. displays a couple of chicken yakitori sticks with negi (Japanese green onion). |
Tokkuri-Tei. A Closer Look. 611 Kapahulu Ave. right outside Waikiki. 739-2800. Lunch Monday-Thursday, dinner and late-night till 12am Monday-Saturday. Daytime parking in lot outside store, valet parking at night even if lot is empty, or on street. Map. Tokkuri-tei is an ecclectic mix of local, traditional Japanese, and modern Japanese. Serving mostly traditional Japanese dishes and looking very much old-school Japanese in design, it also features progressive dishes like wabi-sabi (wasabi sauce) chicken, ahi burger with cheddar cheese and no bun, and portobello mushroom w/sticky fried rice. One of the most ethnically-diverse crowds of any izakaya, this is a very casual, low-key spot with a huge, varied menu sure to please everyone.
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Hamachi with a drizzling of ponzu vinaigrette and pickled wasabi are typical of the new-wave offerings at Shokudo. |
Shokudo. A Closer Look. 1585 Kapiolani Blvd. at the Ala Moana Pacific Center building next to the Ala Moana S.C. 941-3701. Lunch and dinner daily, late night till 1am Sunday-Thursday, 2am on Friday and Saturday. Parking in lot behind building on Kona st. Map. Shokudo is a local favorite for late night hours in a new-wave environment and an ecclectic array of menu items, which are Japanese, but with shades of American, Chinese, and local sometimes evident. The home-made tofu is always a favorite. Add a tiny pinch of rock salt and place it in the bowl of dashi broth for a winning combination and the perfect starter. There are also a few fun-to-eat ishiyaki dishes, which are similar to Korean hot-pot. A super-hot bowl made of stone serves to sear the rice to a golden brown, and a small teapot of dashi is provided and meant to be poured in intermittently to soften the rice, add flavor, and prevent the rice from burning. These ishiyaki dishes are topped with savory items like salmon, fish eggs, and our favorite here - a rich, dark unagi fillet.
| Akinono with a classic shrimp/enoki mushroom in ponzu. |  |
Aki-nono. A Closer Look. 2633 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 947-1001. Dinner and late-night till 2am nightly, except closed on Monday. Validated parking at University Square lot at the corner of University ave. and S. King st., or on street. Map. Aki-nono has the traditional feel of an old-time izakaya place, but has its share of modern dishes, attentive service, and clean, comfortable surroundings. They are perhaps most famous for the infamous fugu (pufferfish), which is prepared in several different ways but also serve a wide variety of dishes from their multi-paged menu, like bacon-wrapped asparagus, shiso-fried ahi, udon, yakitori, ginger pork, and sushi.
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Delicious, home-made tofu three different ways at new-wave izakaya Gazen. |
Gazen. A Closer Look. 2480 Kapiolani Blvd. in Kaimuki. 737-0230. Dinner nightly and late-night till 11:45pm nightly. Parking outside store. Map. This Japanese chain of new-wave izakaya restaurants has large, reasonably stylish dining area with cushioned, high-backed booths for comfort and privacy. There are many progressive dishes here like the grilled beef with goat cheese and salmon carpaccio. They also have a home-made tofu, which has a very soft, mellow flavor to it, but is not as silky as the tofu in many of the other Japanese restaurants. You can get it fried, grounded, or mixed with other ingredients and sauces, but the best way to enjoy it is in its purest form, where it is served with small piles of salt crystals and tea leaves that are grounded into a dried powder.
Bistro A-Un. 1960 Kapiolani Blvd. at the McCully S.C. in McCully/Moiliili. 947-4914. Dinner nightly and late night till 1am nightly. Parking in center lot. Map. Right outside Waikiki is a funky little izakaya. The solid, heavy door with a tiny peephole-of-a-window opens to a small, dimly-lit restaurant that looks half-Goth, half-Japanese. The food is also different, with normal izakaya fare mixing with such items as eggplant parmesan, yuba spring rolls, and bacon-wrapped scallops.
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Kohnotori with a tsukune (ground chicken) and chicken w/negi stick. |
Kohnotori. A Closer Look. 2626 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 941-7255. Dinner and late night till 12am nightly. Parking difficult in same 6-space lot shared with Imanas Tei. Map. This tiny place shares an equally tiny parking space with Imanas Tei next door, so you must park on the street and walk a good way most of the time. Kohnotori is famous for their grilled meat on a stick, of which yakitori, kushiyaki, and robatayaki are some of the more familiar terms used in this type of cooking. Yakitori is basically any part of the chicken on a stick while kushiyaki and robatayaki are more generic names, the former deriving from the words skewer and grill and the latter meaning to grill on an open fire. The foods here are very simple, often seasoned only with sea salt, but are great in a home-style type of way. You can sit and watch your food being prepared behind a large plexiglass wall. Be prepared for a little bit of smoke smell left on your clothing.
| Tsukuneya is a modern izakaya featuring its namesake, tsukune, but also a wide variety of other specialties, as well. |  |
Tsukuneya. A Closer Look. 1442 University Ave. in Manoa. 943-0390. Dinner nightly, late night till 12am Monday-Saturday, late night till 11pm Sunday. Parking in small lot if available, but usually valet. Map. Tsukuneya is a fashionable new-wave eatery right across from the University of Hawaii. They specialize in yet another kind of grilled item on-a-stick called tsukune, which is a mix of various types of meats that are finely chopped, mixed with egg, yamaimo, and other flavorings, then pressed and molded onto the sticks, which are then grilled over an open fire. An interesting concept and a stylish, enjoyable atmosphere that is perfect for drinks.
Ojiya. A Closer Look. 1718 Kapiolani Blvd. near Ala Moana S.C. 942-3838. Dinner nightly, late-night till 1am. Parking outside store, at 24 Hour Fitness lot, or on street. Map. Ojiya is part of a small chain of restaurants in Japan and the Mainland, this Kapiolani location being the first in the islands. It is a stylish, though casual izakaya, smartly-decored in modern tones of both local and Japanese designs. There are all your favorite izakaya items and more, like kinpira gobo, stewed tendon, fatty pork belly, tsukune, soba, udon, katsu, curry, and tempura. Sushi and sashimi choices are rather limited, with only a few choices of salmon, hamachi, kanpachi, and maguro ahi, though there are rotating specials that lengthen the list. You won't find any new-wave rolls here, although the menu does push it right out to the edge, with its popular, delicious gobo chips, carpaccio's, and more.
| A wide variety of traditional Japanese dishes, including a full sushi bar, at tourist-popular Odoriko in Waikiki. |  |
Odoriko. 2400 Koa Ave. at the King’s Village S.C. in Waikiki. 923-7368. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily, and late-night till 12am daily. Parking at King’s Village or on street. Prices: $$$. Map. Odoriko is another one of those Waikiki spots that locals don’t know much about, but is about as big and established a Japanese restaurant as there is anywhere on the island. The cavernous, multi-roomed restaurant has a little something for everyone, from family-style teishoku sets, izakaya-type offerings, and a full sushi bar to nabe hot-pots, omakase courses, and party platters! On the cheaper side, locals will be pleased at the Kama’aina menu, with meals between the $5 and $8 range, while on the other end, lobster-filled courses with 10 or more separate dishes in total can be as much as $60. There are also beautiful and elaborate sashimi boats, sushi platters, and full nabe sets that can be much more, albeit for two or more people. Mostly up-beat and lively, with crowds mostly consisting of tourists from Japan and all over the world.
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Jinroku is a teppan/izakaya restaurant with a hip, yet casual atmosphere and great dishes like this pork-wrapped asparagus. |
Jinroku. A Closer Look. 2427 Kuhio Ave. in Waikiki. 926-8955. Dinner and late-night till 1am nightly. Valet parking or on street. Map. This hip, new-wave spot offers teppan-style dishes, or items cooked on a flat griddle. Okonomiyaki dishes are popular here, as are mixed negiyaki, both of them made up of various meats and vegetables cooked in a batter and sliced into pizza-like sections. There is no sushi and no sashimi - just about everything is cooked! Great place for drinks in a trendy, modern, yet casual atmosphere. Check out the "closer look" for pictures and our last visit there.
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Funky-modern, eclectic dishes meets youthful buzz and energy at Izakaya Naru. |
Izakaya Naru. A Closer Look. 2700 S. King St. in McCully/Moiliili. 951-0510. Dinner nightly till 11pm Sunday-Thursday, till 2am Friday and Saturday. Parking on street or Sushi King lot. Prices: $$$. Map. Lots of funky, new-wave Japanese izakaya cuisine on the menu here, with items like gyoza pizza, gyoza lasagna, deep-fried veggie chips, ahi and negi on a hot stone, and tako watershield, or octopus with an aquatic plant from the brasenia family, which is known for secreting a slimy substance very similar to mozuku. There are also different varieties of nabe, rolled egg types, poke, sashimi, stir-fried noodle, stone pot rice, and specials according to the day. The energy is spirited and fun in this tiny restaurant of a few tables and a counter area, with very friendly employees stoking good times by thankfully yelling upon any customer’s entry, exit, or every purchase of an alcoholic drink! And there are many drinks to choose from here, with wine, mostly Japanese beer, sake, shochu, and the Okinawan product of awamori, which can be served as-is (usually w/ice) or with a host of items used to flavor the drink, such as . Part of a small chain of restaurants in Tokyo, this is their first expansion outside of Japan, and they imbibe a unique, character-filled personality you will definitely find entertaining.
Genius Lounge. 346 Lewers St. at the Genius Outfitters Building in Waikiki. 626-5362. 6pm-2am nightly. Parking on street or in public lots. Prices: $$$$. Map. You won’t find this place unless you’re looking, as this hole-in-the-wall place is located on the third floor of a clothing store building called Genius Outfitters. Once inside, you’ll find the largest selection of sake on the island as well as a surprisingly diverse menu of sophisticated dining choices. Izakaya plates of house-made tsukemono, cream cheese poke, maguro natto, and even foie gras and caviar can be found, along with gazpacho soup, kim chee fried rice, menchi katsu, pumpkin w/bacon, citrus pepper chicken, filet mignon, and pasta choices like arrabiata, vongole, ja ja mein, and more. The atmosphere is lounge-like, with dim lighting and candles at every table, and perfect for a progressive evening date or small-group get-togethers. A fun, cool vibe permeates the place, and it gets busy later at night, but 6pm-8pm is a great time, as select drinks and menu items are half-off.
Izakaya Tairyo. 514 Piikoi St. across from Ala Moana S.C. 592-8500. Dinner nightly. Limited parking fronting Store, on street, or in pay lot behind Store on Hopaka St. Prices: $$$. Map. The bright, flashy paintings on the roof symbolize a fun, catchy place, and it gets even funner once inside! Crab traps, grocery crates, fish nets, squid lamps, and other seaside articles all combine for a Japanese fishing village scene as well-decorated, roomy, and themed as an American chain restaurant! Happy hour specials, from 5-6:30pm and 9:30pm- closing, feature $8 pitchers and $5 small plates. The name Tairyo translates to good or big catch, and there’s a lot of good catches here, such as fried squid, sashimi, sushi, rolls, hamachi kama, and large steamers of clams, mussels, oysters, pork, shrimp, and other such ingredients. You’ll also find all your favorite izakaya items, such as chicken karaage, agedashi tofu, kushi katsu, tsukune, and a Nagoya-style chicken wing dish that I recommend you try.
Yakitori Yoshi’s. 1427 Makaloa St. in McCully/Moiliili. 941-6891. Dinner nightly, late-night till 12am Sunday-Friday, 2am Saturday. Parking fronting Store or on street. Prices: $$$. Map. The same owners of Kohnotori have arrived at the former location of Hale Macrobiotic restaurant, and the menu is largely the same except greatly expanded. Not only is there the same kushiyaki fare (grilled items on a stick) of the parent place, such as bacon-wrapped asparagus, tebasaki, and negima, but there are also such izakaya-like dishes as katsu, hiyayakko, sunomono, ponzu oysters, and even a light, tasty, thin-noodle ramen that is perfect to round-out your evening. A hip atmosphere from the last establishment remains, with a reasonably large dining room, a long counter fronting the robata bar, and drop lighting in strategic places. Parking is available outside but the lot is relatively small, so you may have to park on the street.
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Surprisingly elegant cuisine like this starter trio of kazunoko, head-on shrimp, Big Island baby abalone, and garnishes are readily available at Sushi Izakaya Shinn. |
Sushi Izakaya Shinn. A Closer Look. 2065 S. Beretania St. in McCully/Moiliili. 946-7466. Dinner nightly. Parking in lot next to building. Prices: $$$$. Map. You may surmise from the humble location and entrance that this is just another eatery, but step inside, and you’ll be immediately taken by the ritzy, well-coordinated surroundings reminiscent of a chic Waikiki restaurant or lounge, complete with a stanchioned-off VIP table elevated 4-5 feet up in the air and, in the swank bathroom, a working bidet toilet! As for the cuisine, Chef Hiro Yokoyama uses his upscale culinary background to create presentations worthy of, dare I say, a genuine kaiseki meal! Of course, if you prefer, there is great sushi, great izakaya-like dishes, and also a genuine robata (items grilled right before customers) bar, but don’t forget the fancier fare not normally found in your every-day, street corner izakaya, such as botan shrimp w/yuzu gelee, braised Berkshire pork belly, rack of lamb w/chimichurri, and elegent mixed sashimi bowls on ice. Great place for bringing your discriminating friends visiting from Japan.
| Squid guts anyone? Ika shiokara from Hanabi means raw squid swimming in its own innards! |  |
Miyabi. 808 Kapahulu Ave. 737-2828. Dinner nightly except closed Sunday. Parking across street at Go Bananas or on street. Map. This little hide-away carries a voluminous menu of authentic izakaya fare, but there's also no shortage of new-wave rolls like caterpillar, rainbow, and dragon, to name a few. As for truly traditional items that locals may deem hyper-exotic, there's ika shiokara (squid guts, literally), grilled organs like heart, liver, and intestine, motsu-nabe (beef organs in dashi broth), and, of course, all of your favorite raw, slimy seafoods from their excellent sushi bar. Though the clientele is mixed, everything about this place is about as Japanes’ee as it gets! No worries for those looking for a rather tamer menu too, as there’s also chicken karaage, tempura, chicken wings, deep-fried whole flounder, grilled shrimp, butter-yaki salmon, and much, much more! It’s a little difficult finding the place due to a tiny signboard, but just look for Go Bananas Kayak store right across the street, which has a parking lot you can also use when dining at Miyabi.
