 |
 |
hawaii Regional Cuisine, page 1
|
You'll be amazed at what lurks under this cover! |
 |
Alan Wong’s. A Closer Look. 1857 S. King St. in McCully/Moiliili. 949-2526. Dinner nightly. Valet parking. Prices: $$$$. Map. This James Beard Award and 11-time Ilima Award winner is the personification of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, helping to raise the bar to Mauna Kea-like levels. An island-style elegance is embodied in everything from the furniture and décor to the excellent service and innovative dishes. Menu items clearly identify with the local culture, as evidenced by such dishes as Da Bag, which is a glorified version of Hawaiian lau-lau and made by steaming clams, kalua pig, shiitake mushroom, and spinach within in a foil bag. The poki-pines dish is another local icon gone wild. It comes from the popular, locally-created poke, which is fried in a won-ton wrapper along with avocados and a wasabi sauce. You gotta have great seafood to survive in the islands as a fine restaurant, and Alan Wong’s does not disappoint, with such excellent choices as onaga, opah, moi, and Kona Kampachi. Besides seafood, they also run the whole gamut of meats, such as twice-cooked, soy-braised shortrib, Kurobuta pork chop, and Maui Cattle Company garlic steak. The wine list is also impressive, as are the luscious desserts and creative 5 and 7-course, set dinner menus, which change according to the creation of new dishes and the freshness of available ingredients.
Roy’s. 3 locations: 6600 Kalanianaole Hwy. at the Town Center in Hawaii Kai (map shown), 396-7697; 92-1220 Aliinui Drive at Ko Olina, 676-7697; and 226 Lewers st. at the Beachwalk in Waikiki, 923-7697. Dinner nightly all locations. Prices: $$$$. Map. Chef Roy Yamaguchi is another James Beard and Ilima Award winner, and has over 30 high-end restaurants in Guam, Japan, New York, and other cities across the US. His flagship restaurant in Hawaii Kai, while high-end, is also very casual, with the open-air kitchen clinging, clanging, and sizzling to produce a decibel level more often found in a busy cafeteria. If you want something a wee bit quieter, sit downstairs in the lounge area or outside if the weather is right – its south shore location right across the street from beautiful Maunalua Bay makes for brilliant sunset dinners and lava-flow cocktails. For pu-pu’s (appetizers, for all you visitors!), try the Roy’s canoe, a show-stopping sample of shrimp sticks, szechuan baby-backed ribs, island poke, pork and shrimp lumpia, and/or seafood potstickers. The Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish and hibachi-grilled salmon are very popular as entrees, and for dessert, be sure to try the melting chocolate soufflé, which must be ordered before the meal because of the preparation time involved.
 |
Apex in gourmet cuisine types - foie gras with Maui pineapple/vanilla compote from 3660 on the Rise. |
3660 on the Rise. A Closer Look. 3660 Waialae Ave. in Kaimuki. 737-1177. Dinner nightly, except closed on Monday. Parking in building. Prices: $$$$. Map. Chef Russel Siu is another island-born and bred chef that should not be missed, and as mentioned earlier, was very instrumental in the birth and development of Hawaii Regional dining. Ever since his first restaurant, 3660, was opened in 1992, it has always been one of the big power players on the island dining scene, with dishes that blend classic and contemporary in perfect step. The ahi katsu is an absolute icon that has been popular from the very beginning, coming wrapped in nori, crusted lightly with panko flakes, fried quickly to preserve a bright-red center, and layered in slices on a wasabi-ginger sauce. The Macadamia nut-crusted Colorado rack of lamb is as soft as a tenderloin steak and comes with enough oomph to let you enjoy the bold flavors of lamb without any hint of gaminess. Other excellent dishes are the tempura catfish, fire-roasted breast of duckling, and masago arare-crusted ahi – all top-knotch! Complement these with an extensive wine list, great desserts, and top-level service, and we can safely conclude that if you have a bad experience here, it’s all your fault!
 |
Star power! One of only a couple of local restaurants to receive a coveted AAA Five Diamond Award, you can safely and confidently bring your snotty foodie-friend to Chef Mavro's anyday! |
Chef Mavro. A Closer Look. 1969 S. King St. in McCully/Moilili. 944-4714. Dinner nightly except closed on Monday. Valet parking. Prices: $$$$. Map. You have to listen closely to James Beard award-winning Chef George Mavrothalassitis, who is really Greek by ethnicity but raised in France, because his accent is very pronounced and his personality one of complete passion, as in someone who frequently loses all sense of everything around him as he becomes totally absorbed in his art. With a stylish Einstonian hairdo and wide glasses, he is our local culinary mad scientist of sorts, having an almost fanatical zeal for fresh, new ingredients and concocting his dishes with crisp precision and detail. You will only find a few set dinner courses on the menu, each carefully matched with wines upon request. Both the food and wine selections are changed quarterly, and are evaluated by the Chef and his trusted staff members, who gather to elect the best choices and pairings before each new menu is made. Chef Mavro’s elegant French-inspired dishes have fused well with local palates, having gained notoriety at the Four Seasons Maui and also Oahu’s premium hotel, the Halekulani in Waikiki. One of the priciest places on the island, but a justified experience, nonetheless.
| It's always a happy time at Sansei's generously-discounted early-bird and late-night Happy Hour's, as shown from the bar side of the restaurant. Who's that babe? |  |
Sansei Seafood and Sushi Bar. A Closer Look. 2552 Kalakaua Ave. at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Hotel. 931-6286. Dinner nightly, late night menu till 1am Friday and Saturday. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$. Map. Chef Dk Kodama was the man who burst open the floodgates for new-wave sushi in the islands – rainbow, caterpillar, and spider rolls, sushi wraps, dynamite scallops, spicy tuna maki, and other such creations. Not for the entrenched traditionalists, but oh, so delicious and pleasing, both to the eye and the palate. They even have a foie gras sushi that is out of this world! Be sure to try the signature crispy rock shrimp dynamite, which is deep fried crispy and tossed in a creamy garlic masago sauce, then drizzled with a rich, dark unagi glaze. They also have great entrees worthy of any Pacific Rim restaurant, such as crab-stuffed lobster tails, pepper-crusted pork tenderloins with Asian fig chutney, and grilled garlic-miso prawns. Free karaoke is offered in the evenings, often with entertaining hosts that help whip up the action. Weekend late-nights (after 10pm) can get really loud and crazy-fun, as the mike booms and appetizers and sushi items are 50% off! There are also early-bird specials of 25%-50% off between 5:30pm and 6pm.
Stage. A Closer look. 1250 Kapiolani Blvd. at the Honolulu Design Center near the Ala Moana S.C. 237-5429. Lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch 10am-1:30pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. Once you walk into the Honolulu Design Center’s swank furniture outlet and the posh Amuse self-serve wine bar, both of which you must pass to get to the restaurant, you are already pre-conditioned for what lies ahead. Stage is aptly named, with the chef reaching deep into the culinary goody bag of tricks to produce some wild creations on large, showy platters. Stage's former chef started the reputation here for edible gelees, foams, and other cutting-edge creations, but the flair has not been lost, with creative young chefs here since the opening carrying on the tradition with their own unique twists. Dishes like snow crab cakes with Kahuku corn relish and puree with white truffle essence and a grand sashimi platter with Hamachi, kabayaki sauce, wasabi "paint," shoyu gelee, orange tobiko, and crispy radish sprouts with shiso are sure to get your attention. Then there is the roasted Keahole lobster tails, hormone-free king salmon, and trio of beef tenderloin, coming with, in brief, an Asian peppercorn sauce, a brulee'd Bernaise sauce with shiso and togarashi, and a Bordelaise sauce with shiitake mushroom. Meals fit for the big...? No, I won't be so cheesy!
Chai’s Island Bistro. 1 Aloha Tower Dr. at the Aloha Tower Marketplace ocean side of Downtown Honolulu. 585-0011. Lunch from Tuesday-Friday and dinner nightly. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. This chef is somewhat of an international celebrity in his own right, first opening Singha Thai restaurant in Bangkok in 1972, and later a Waikiki location of the same name. Far be it for chef Chai Chaowasaree to limit himself to Thai cooking exclusively – his third venture, Chai’s Island Bistro, was soon created as an outlet for his growing culinary creativity. As Sam Choy was heavily influenced by local and native Hawaiian foods, DK Kodama with sushi and Japanese, and Chef Mavro with all things French, here also we find Hawaii Regional Cuisine at it’s best with decidedly Thai overtones. His popular macadamia nut and kataifi-encrusted jumbo tiger prawns are a winner, as are his duck-filled spring rolls, grilled Mongolian Lamb chops with brandy demi-glaze, and Asian pesto and sake-steamed moi (remember our “fish of Kings?”). One thing you must be aware of here is the music. We’re not talking soft background music with a cello or violin - we’re talking in your face, live concerts with the best local musicians around, like Jake Shimabukuro, Sista Robi Kahakalau, Makana, Jerry Santos, and many more. Not the place for a quiet evening, but definitely the place for a musical, fun-filled one. Half of the dining area is under the stars, and Chai will often be there chatting up guests and seating customers himself.
| Chef Hiroshi Fukui of Hiroshi's Eurasian Tapas combines elegant Hawaii Regional Cuisine offerings with his traditional Kaiseki experience. |  |
Hiroshi’s Eurasian Tapas. A Closer Look. 500 Ala Moana Blvd. at the Restaurant Row in Kakaako. 533-4476. Dinner nightly. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$. Map. Chef Hiroshi Fukui was responsible for the artistry behind the Euro-Japanese concepts at the now-closed L’uraku, and now continues on as part of DK Kodama’s family of fine restaurants, all of which share in the benefits of master sommelier Chuck Furuya to pair the wine choices. Chef Hiroshi’s style of well-balanced, eye-pleasing dishes are a pleasure to the senses. His red-wine braised veal cheeks with a cilantro-pesto crust is moist, flavorful, and bold while the fresh Kona Kampachi Sashimi in tofu/ponzu vinaigrette is a visually crisp contrast of pinkish-white fish and dark citrus-soy sauce. And what is Japanese without sushi and misoyaki butterfish? You’ll find them both in flawless form here. His small, tapa-style dishes are colorful, intricate, and fun - a fusion of modern culture and Japanese kaiseki, which is a traditional art featuring small dishes and many courses, each symbolic of only items that are in season, at the peak of ripeness and maturity. Several nights a year Chef Hiroshi offers an elaborate set-dinner course, where he uses a kaiseki format but is free to venture beyond the confines of strict tradition. Call for times and availability.
Hoku’s. 5000 Kahala Ave. at the Kahala Hotel and Resort in Kahala. 739-8780 or 739-8888. Dinner nightly. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. This elegant dining room boasts great views with stunning sunsets and oceanfront luxury. The open-air kitchen sports a kiawe-wood grill and a tandoori oven that puts out exotic breads, which, when coupled with their different sauces, are absolutely delicious. I can remember when they were offered as free starters, but are now, unfortunately, presented for a charge. For entrees, the whole-fried opakapaka is a show-stopper in itself, as is the seafood tower, which is a large tower of ice whose adornments are pieces of lobster, crab, oysters, shrimp, and other seafoods, all stuck tidily into the tower, with sauces to complement. We actually don’t recommend this dish, but mention it because it is often ordered. Don’t get me wrong, it is a spectacularly presented dish with the freshest of seafood items, but personally, I find seafood on ice more fit for a buffet and a bit too straightforward for an excuisite Pacific Rim dining experience. I prefer to take advantage of local boy Chef Wayne Hirabayashi’s skill and creativity with other more complex dishes, like the lobster hoku-dor (a play on thermi-dor) or his baked oysters with bacon, creamed leeks, fennel, and a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. You know, something only a great chef would ever dream of whipping up!
 |
Hidden jewel in the quiet residential neighborhood of Niu Valley. |
Le Bistro. 5730 Kalanianaole Hwy. at the Niu Valley S.C. in Niu Valley. 373-7990. Dinner nightly except closed on Tuesday. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$$. Map. Here is a hidden jewel tucked away in an unassuming, small shopping center in the quiet neighborhood of Niu Valley. Since opening in 2001, chef Alan Takasaki has garnered a loyal following in this hide-away spot without a lot of fanfare and marketing hype, relying instead on simply providing a great dining experience and words passed along through the grapevine. A seasoned chef who had his share of culinary experience all over the world, chef Takasaki originally planned on a restaurant featuring his passion, a pure French bistro. Before the opening bell sounded, however, he believed that in order to please his customers on a more regular basis, he needed to incorporate other ideas as well. His strategy has worked out well and in classic Hawaii Regional form, with dishes like veal with wild mushrooms in cognac sauce that really speak French, as well as items like the locally-inspired dish that is the most popular item here – the slow and low shortribs. The Miro Street-style scallops in butter and New Orleans spices are also fabulous.
Orchids. 2199 Kalia Road at the Halekulani Hotel in Waikiki. 923-2311. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly, Sunday Brunch buffet from 9:30am-2pm. Parking at hotel. Prices: $$$$. Map. When you’re the main Hawaii Regional restaurant at the prestigious Halekulani, you better know what you’re doing. This is the finest hotel on the island, and though not over-the-top with themed gimmicks like Las Vegas or with over-sized mega-pools like the larger hotels on the outer islands, their attention to authentic island tradition, classic décor, and impeccable service leads to a more adult-oriented and elegant atmosphere. Chef Darryl Fujita leads the way with his incredible Sunday Brunch buffet, where omelet stations, meat carvers, seafood delights, lavish desserts, and a plethora of choices will assuredly spoil any plans for whatever it is you were counting on doing later that day, because you won’t be able to move afterwards! Besides brunch, there are also very fine offerings of fresh island fish, with a steamed onaga prepared Asian style, with soy sauce, sesame, ginger, green onion, shiitake mushrooms, and Chinese parsley, at the top of the list. If you’re a bit adventurous try the Kobe-style Tataki beef carpaccio, drizzled with a truffle Crème Fraiche. Such dishes and more match well with the upscale ambiance found at the Halekulani.
Mariposa. In Neiman Marcus at the Ala Moana S.C. 951-3420. Lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly, Sunday brunch 11am-3pm. Parking in center lot. Prices: $$$. Map. For those of you blessed with casually purchasing $100 salad plates and $200 feather-bearing hats, knock yourself out at Neiman Marcus, but for those of us just passing through the store to the restaurant, you will find a dining room that is upscale but casual, with a contemporary, island-style design. The culinary creations blend well with its Ala Moana Shopping Center patronizers, from the light sandwiches and salads to more upscale creations like like duck breast with goat cheese and cherries. For dessert, try the warm lilikoi pudding cake, which is has a rich, oozing center that sweet-tooth’s will crave, and is topped with an almost equally sweet fruit garnish.
 |
Tango cafe at the Hokua Building is a great place for modern, contemporary meals at very reasonable prices. |
Tango Cafe. A Closer Look. 1288 Ala Moana Blvd. at the Hokua Building in Kakaako. 593-7288. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Parking inside building. Prices: $$. Map. Formerly open just for breakfast and lunch, this casual yet very minimalistically stylish cafe offers some very fine foods at really great prices, with only a few dishes moving past $20. Despite the cost, you'll find all the freshest ingredients, attention to detail, and skill and precision typical of Hawaii Regional Cuisine restaurants, whether coming for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. There are classy items like crab hash benedict, eggs Florentine, Hamakua mushroom risotto w/garlic shrimp and asparagus, sauteed moi w/tomato fennel coulis, bouillabaisse of fresh island fish, prawns, and mussels in a saffron broth, and much more.
