CPK (California Pizza Kitchen), a closer look

Aloha!

10/27/08 - Greetings, all! Boy, I tell you, this world is all about progress, isn't it? Nothing ever stays the same! The tug-of-war between traditional and modern seems to always trigger a certain degree of passionate discourse and opinion. Whether it comes to art, music, clothing, food, even, dare I say, politics, there is just as much inertia, perhaps even more, flowing in the way of change as there is a force to continue tenaciously holding on to the past (not a negative connotation, mind you!). Both sides are respectfully qualified, each holding uniquely persuasive and believable points of view. While one contends for progress, flexibility, and innovation, the other is more nostalgically rooted in proven, time-tested techniques and methods that usually come with the full, orthodox backing of powerful influences like cultural pride, honoring of ancestor's ways, and emotional ties that go back many generations, the kinds that provide rallying points for entire extended family groups. Don't dare tread against that.

Try changing one iota's worth of ingredients in the Castellani or Sarducci family's recipe, and you'll have grandma beating you over the head with a flour-dusted rolling pin. Try ditching the traditional brick oven with a brand new stainless-steel one, no matter how fancy, and all of a sudden, the relatives stop coming over. Try using the words frozen, canned, ready-made, or even microwave in front of some, and you'll be lucky to come away with just a scolding.

The point is, some things are meant to be changed, and other things, not. There is an allure to both traditional and modern forms of cooking that interestingly provides deep insights into the respective hearts and minds of its bearers, revealing a form of creative expression that, either way, can be fully released and fulfilled in equal measures. There's plenty of room for all sides to revel and boast. Of course, you'll always have those that doggedly stick to one side, and one side only. That ain't so bad a thing, so long as you don't condescend on the other side, and realize that skills are skills are skills, whatever your personal take on the matter.

CPK, or California Pizza Kitchen, is, without a doubt, a proponent of the modern way of thinking. The very term California, itself, seems the very personifaction of modernism - ask the brethren from neighboring Oregon or Washington State, they'll tell you!

CPK is typical of almost any American Restaurant Chain these days - clean, attractive, large, and well-designed properties that are casual, consistent, fun, and, well... modern! You just know that there are no expenses withheld, with everything from floors, tables, and chairs to the roof, ceramics, stainless steel counters, and lighting all intentionally placed and professionally-coordinated from the get-go. Makes it very hard for mom-and-pop operations to compete when guys like this own ticker symbols on the Big Board with the raging bull out in front. Take a look at the bar area, along with just one side, the smaller side, in fact, of the restaurant itself. Pretty spiffy, ey?

There are also non-pizza items like ginger salmon, marsala chicken breasts, real crabcakes, egg rolls, dips, pastas, desserts (one of which you'll see in just a bit that was, oh, to die for!), and giant salads like grilled vegetable, Asian miso, Mediterranean, and Chinese chicken. For a full look at their menu, check out www.cpk.com/menu.

As for our table of four-and-a-half, we first ordered a cobb salad, which was easily enough to provide all of us with decent servings each. The plate was piled high with shredded lettuce, applewood-smoked bacon, grilled chicken, avocados, diced tomatoes, chopped egg, basil, gorgonzola cheese, and herb-ranch dressing. Beets come upon request, with no extra charge. I guess many really don't care for the strong, sharp flavors of that dark-red/purple root vegetable. As you can see from the next couple of pics, one before and one after mixing, our table didn't quite share that same opinion.

We shared three different pies among us, the first being a Greek pizza. This colorful, vibrant-looking dish was basically a Greek salad minus the lettuce, coming with a smorgasboard of healthy offerings like cucumbers, red onions, tomatoes, olives, and grilled chicken, along with mozzarella and feta cheeses, a lemon herb vinaigrette, and finally, a homemade tzatziki sauce on top. Definitely a new-wave pizza type, the creamy-white tzatziki gave it a ranch dressing-like quality that, again, goes so well with pizza, and the health aspect alone of fresh, raw vegetables makes it a worthwhile dish for a certain set - even more so when ordering it without chicken. Great combination of flavors, and very pretty, as well, it was.

Many moons upon a time, back before I even knew what tiramisu was, I had this classic Italian dessert for the first time, right here at this very California Pizza Kitchen in Kahala. I don't remember any specifics except to say that I know I was completely impressed, it quite possibly being my first foray into the world of anything beyond Leonard's malasadas, home-made Betty Crocker, and Hostess twinkies and cupcakes. For some reason, though, I've never returned since to confirm the experience. My culinary appreciation from high school having been dramatically upgraded since then, I almost fearfully wondered if a current experience with the same tiramisu would possibly negate decades of fond, sweet memories. Was it really as good as I thought?

All I know is that I've since had tiramisu too many times to keep track of, and not one of those had nearly the effect that this CPK tiramisu had on me that very first time. Whereas I once thought of this dish as near the pinnacle of desserts, over the years I had begun thinking of it as just another fancified, over-rated confection enjoyed by snobby, overly-cultured, rich people in Venice, Milan, or Rome. I knew I had to give it another shot one day. And today was the day...

With a bit of trepidation, I asked our kind waiter to bring us an order, knowing full-well that my flight attendant sister, as well as her husband from Norway, have both flown all over Europe and the East Coast of the US, trying tiramisu at every posh, artistic, and uniquely original dessert shop they happened to stumble upon. Squeezing my cheeks a bit, I was. When the order came, I began feeling a little better, as it sure did look good, at the very least! Coming loaded with a beautiful white cream and dusted with cocoa powder, there just may yet be hope that my fond memories would not immediately be vanquished...

You know what that means...

"Better than New York?" I asked, this time with much more hope and confidence.

"Amsterdam? Florence? Paris?"

"Yes, yes, yes, and yes" was the reply.

Wow, a deep sense of satisfaction filled me up inside. I almost cried. Just joking...

It was good, though. Really good. Some may consider it a bit ice-creamish and maybe just a bit unsophisticated, as it was loaded with sweet creams and didn't quite have as strong a liqueur taste, which, in both aspects, suited me just fine. The layers of lady finger-like cake, mascarpone cream, and rum/espresso-soakings were both bitter and sweet, soft and firm, creamy and spongy all in one dish, combining for a very classy dessert showpiece, indeed. Aaah, cherished memories preserved forever!

With locations at Ala Moana, Pearl Ridge, and Kahala Mall Shopping Centers, and also in Kailua and Waikiki, CPK almost always seems to draw a decent, steady crowd, and I can see why. Besides the great atmosphere and food, prices are pretty decent, as well. Our entire tab of three different pizza's, one large salad, one dessert, and two beverages came out to just under $65. Not exactly shoe-string for four-and-a-half, but not so bad for this type of setting.

I'll leave you with two final shots, one of the entrance inside of the Kahala Mall, and the other just outside.

Hope you're all having a great and wonderful and fantabulous day! Pretty soon, the completely re-designed site will be out, and not much longer after that will be a Japanese version, as well!

Take care, and Aloha till next time!!!